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Experience the finest and rarest wines in the world through the eyes and palate of Acker Chairman and globally renowned master taster, John Kapon (our “JK”).
“Vintage Tastings” is a written journal chronicling the incredible bottles opened at some of the most exclusive tastings, wine dinners, and events all over the globe. These entries represent JK’s commitment to capturing and sharing the ephemeral nature and ultimate privilege of tasting the world’s rarest wines.
Although ratings are based on a 100-point scale, JK believes there is no such thing as a 100-point wine. Point scores assigned to each wine are his own personal attempt to quantify the quality of each experience.
This past week I was in New York, but I might as well have been in Hong Kong, as the three dinners on my calendar were with three of HK’s finest collectors, all in New York on separate business occasions, although there were a couple of interconnected links.
The Chairman is a name bestowed on three different individuals in three different continents as far as Vintage Tastings lore goes, but it would be safe to say that they all might defer to the one in Hong Kong for any final votes in the boardroom. A number of us were treated to a night of incredible wine and food in the private room at Bouley, as the pulse of America’s and China’s investment market met and broke bread and reds.
I think five bottles of 1995 Krug went down the hatch by the time we sat down to dinner. The 1995 is definitely getting better with age, and it is starting to thicken a bit. It was still rustic yet bready, with nice oil and vitamin flavors, flirting with outstanding (94+).
The 1997 Chave Hermitage Blanc took up the Montrachet challenge, and if there were ever a white that could knock a Montrachet down to its knees, it would be this. While some might put its personality under the ‘acquired’ or ‘geeky’ category, I find his whites fabulous and unique. It had that glue-do-voodoo kink, which hopefully anyone who has had his whites will understand. There were kinky fruits, icy flavors and diamonds sparkling on its finish. It was round and full, with mango, game and (good) bitter flavors. This was a white wine still ascending at age 17, although its fruit was starting to hit that sweet spot (95).
The 2000 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche was more than up for the challenge. This is my favorite Montrachet in terms of price-to-quality ratio. It always delivers outstanding quality without the stratospheric price tag, and this was no exception. The crowd immediately jumped in the Montrachet camp, but of course, they were bankers, so no surprise there J. Its nose oozed buttery spice, along with nice mint, cedar and cream aromas. Its palate was long, smooth and buttery, while Jennie observed, ‘overripe pineapple.’ I loved this wine (95+).
The Chairman plucked off the list a 1978 DRC Echezeaux. The bottle was a bit bruised and battered on the outside, but absolutely perfect on the inside. You could not ask for anything more out of this wine. Aromas of sous bois, menthol, autumn and dried beef all fought for our attention over its sappy, tree-lined fruit. This was a smooth, satiny and delicious wine; long, classy and classic all at once. Its flavors had a nice brothy quality to them, and the wine delivered secondary and tertiary action that carried us on wings into the next course (96) .
Riding Dirty Off the List
A pair of dueling ’90 Right Bankers were next, beginning with the 1990 Angelus. This was reportedly Hubert’s favorite vintage of all-time. It was deep, big and long with black fruits, bread and great dryness. It was quite thick and long, toeing the line between New and Old Worlds quite deftly. It didn’t please everyone in the crowd as ‘too aggressive’ and ‘anchovy’ came out, but I liked and respected the wine (95).
The 1990 Le Bon Pasteur was exotic and coconutty with a shot of whey protein in there. This was a Pomerol Power Smoothie, drinking great with rich fruit and plummy fruit flavors. Many in the room preferred it, and it was certainly in a better spot as far as drinking right now (94).
90 Power
The classic showdown of Palmer versus Margaux never gets old, especially when they are both from 1983. The 1983 Margaux had a deep, invigorating nose with nice black and cassis fruit. There was some grass and honey along with deeper fruit in this classic Margaux. It was both masculine and feminine at the same time (95).
The 1983 Palmer was neck and neck with the Margaux, although I didn’t get a chance to write a complete note. The first ‘Ganbei’ of the night struck. For those of you who don’t know what it means, it means ‘bottoms up.’ Yes, it seems a bit inappropriate when it comes to fine and rare wine, but the power of the Ganbei is greater. If in China, and someone says it, I highly recommend that you drink up. When with the Chairman, it is mandatory (95).
Twin Billing
Two mighty magnums signaled the end of the Bordeaux part of our evening, beginning with a 1961 Lafite Rothschild. This wine has never lived up to the reputation of the vintage, but it is still an excellent wine. It had a lighter nose than one would expect from a ’61 First Growth, but there were pleasing aromas of toffee, pencil, cedar and caramel. Its palate was smooth, light and tender with a nice core of sweetness leaning on the toffee side. I believe ‘jolly good’ might be an apt descriptor (93M).
The 1959 Margaux had a richer nose that was blacker. There was a touch of gas to this also smooth wine. A hint of apricot tiptoed out of this wine’s catacombs to show exotic fruit. OTR commented, ‘the Lafite would just lay there, while this one would put me in positions’ he never knew he was capable of, or something to that effect. Point, set, match, Margaux (94M).
Out of Magnum No Less
Actually, it wasn’t the end of our Bordeaux program, as I had to slip in a blind wine of my own. Such generosity must be reciprocated. I told everyone if anyone guessed what the wine was, dinner was on me. After a few near-misses, The Chairman was honing in, so I decided to reveal it was a 1979 Petrus. This was a gorgeous bottle with an open nose full of chocolate. There was ‘a big, bold finish’ per someone or another, and its foreground was satiny, round and smooth. Mints, olives and other usual Petrus friends joined this party (95).
We had a couple more Ganbeis revisiting some of the Bordeaux, then a couple of Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelles. The 1989 was a dirty birdie (92) and the 1990 was jammy, chewy, friendly and zippy, one of the better bottles of this that I have had recently (94).
Oh yeah, we had some 2001 Yquem. Although I rarely drink sweet wine, that one rocks (98+).
I’m not sure how I managed to have lunch the next day, but the fact that it was at Marea helped. The Artist Formerly Known as Dr. Vino plucked a delicious 2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey off the list, and I felt better again. I can’t remember which wine it was, but they are all good from this up-and-coming Burgundy star.
For those of you that really pay attention to what I write, you may remember a group from Hong Kong called the AlcoholiHKs. Well, one of their Chief Drinking Officers was in town, so we two CDOs got together at Sparks, since he wanted a great American steakhouse. Since I was out Monday with the Hedonist, Tuesday with The Chairman and Wednesday again, dinner was at 5:30. If I wasn’t home by 7:30, I think I might have gotten a homemade vasectomy. So we shared a single bottle, a reasonable 2004 Montrose off the list. It was big and brawny, a bit tight at first, showing more oak than anything else. With some air, and some steak, it settled down into another drinkable ’04, solid but not earthshaking (90).
A couple of days later, I was lucky enough to catch The Zen Master while he transcended through New York City. The Zen Master is also a wine master, so there was only one place to take him: Charlie Bird. We warmed up with a 2007 Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre. It was quintessential Chablis; the ultimate starter wine. It drank like silk embroidered with exotic sea shells and minerals. There was smack to its lemony, tangy palate, and enough length to get into the serious class (94).
The Zen Master selected a 2011 Roulot Meursault Clos des Boucheres, a personal favorite of Sir Robert Bohr’s. This showed 2011 is in the same class as 2007 for whites, a sentiment recently echoed when I was in Burgundy, although everyone seemed to give the nod to ’07 overall. I know Chablis has its own personality relative to the rest of white Burgundy’s vintage charts, but work with me, I’m writing over here. The Meursault was fat yet cut, plump with its ample cleavage aka fruit. It had that signature Roulot flavor, and its smoky sex appeal hit my sweet spot. It was bigger and louder than the Chablis, obviously, and it fit perfectly in the progression of the evening (94).
Group Shot
The Zen Master also picked an intriguing bottle of 1961 Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva. I believe this was before they made single-vineyard wines, and only one Riserva, but I am not sure 100%. This bottle was on the mature side but still drinkable and enjoyable. It had that sweet, open, leathery edge with lots of brown sugar. The tar and caramel came out more and more, and this gritty wine left all of us lip smacking. It did feel like it lacked that usual, extra Giacosa dimension, for whatever it’s worth (92).
Old School
1983 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline. When it comes to the La la’s, there is no doubt that the La Mouline rules the roost, although any given Sunday, La Turque or La Landonne can of course steal the show. I doubt anything could show much better than this ’83. It was a great bottle, showing everything that La Mouline wants to give. Its nose was deep and dark, full of purple, violet and black fruit. Bacon, pepper and that Rhone hot rock spice simmered throughout the wine. This was big, rich yet deft, an agile wine on a heavyweight level (97).
Before in the Bucket
After on the Patio
There was one more wine on our menu, although we probably could have done without. Yeah right, it was a 2002 Rousseau Chambertin. 2002 has always been a darling vintage of mine, but it is starting to join my favorite camp. Dare I say greater than 1999 or 2005 as far as Red Burgundy vintages go? If we are talking pleasure right now, it is tough to argue against the 2002, and it still has a long way to go. There was flesh to the usual musk, wet bamboo and cherry fruit. It was open and singing, singular in its powerful terroir, and long with its acidity. This was a great wine, a definitive knockout blow (96).
Three of my favorite restaurants in NYC (Bouley, Marea and Charlie Bird) along with three of my favorite friends in HK made for three of my favorite things last week, all here in New York City. When it comes to fine wine, invasions are welcome.
There was a time in the wine world when the most expensive wine in the world was Chateau d’Yquem. It was more expensive than the First Growths or Romanee-Conti, and it was the most prestigious and highly regarded wine in the world.
It still is highly regarded, considered by a healthy majority to be the greatest sweet wine in the world, but sweet wine does not hold the same weight in the market place it did 100+ years ago. Palates have changed, and a spoonful of sugar doesn’t always help the medicine go down. In fact, too much sugar might require the need for some Tums or Pepto.
Personally, I rarely eat dessert or drink dessert wine because by the time I reach the end of dinner, I have had enough wine to cover the need for either, and I would prefer to finish the wines that are usually still in my glass. Remember, your body breaks alcohol down into sugar, so there is a sensitivity there that many take for granted.
However, I still love sweet wine. There is nothing quite like it in the world, and a little nip can be irresistible, especially on a first date lol. And when it comes to sweet wine, there is Chateau d’Yquem, and then everything else. When the Wine Workshop put together a tasting of twenty-two vintages from 1990 back to 1945, with David Bouley himself in the kitchen, I had to get my sweet tooth on and see if I could handle this memory and sensory overload. I did spit more than usual, I must confess.
Lunch with Bouley Is Always A Yes
We started with the classic quartet of 1990, 1989, 1988 and 1986. The 1990 Chateau d’Yquem had aromas of seawater, salt, honey, beeswax and candlewax in its nutty and creamy nose. It became more reticent with time in the glass, but its palate stayed honeyed, and it was ‘more textured’ than some of the others in the flight. Orange kisses blew gently over its finish. Interestingly enough, it seemed almost shut down after the 1989, but this was certainly a great Yquem with decades of potential (96).
So Young Yet So Good
The 1989 Chateau d’Yquem had the darkest color of the first four, suggesting a faster maturity curve, meaning drink up by 2050 lol. Strangely enough, there were more slate and rock aromas (suggesting youth), but that nutty, marzipan goodness was still there. This was a very musky wine, ‘more open and evolved’ per the Copperhead. Its palate was creamier, sweeter and more congenial than the 1990. It was honeyed with layers of caramel flavors, and so good now. This is THE vintage of great, young Yquem to drink, possibly over the next two decades (96).
The 1988 took charge of the flight; it was regal by comparison. There was a little herb and marijuana in its nose, with some earth and honey. Its nose came across leaner yet deeper, and lavender emerged. Its palate was the longest of them all, and the Copperhead noted its ‘cough syrup viscosity.’ This was beauty and the beast all in one, clearly the best Yquem since ’75 and until 2001 (98).
The last wine of this flight was a disappointing 1986 d’Yquem. It smelled on the tight side and was icy in its profile. There was a bit of Teppanaki to some meaty qualities, and ‘smoky’ and ‘cheese’ came from the crowd. Its flavors were a bit awkward after the first three, and this was less pure with a bit of alley and wet cement on its finish. It should no longer be in the discussion of great Yquems from the Eighties (93).
Foie You
The 1983 d’Yquem also had a deeper color a la 1989, a veritable sibling. There was smoke and cement in the nose, along with honey and caramel. Open orange flavors were supported by creamsicle ones. There was less purity to its sweetness as it was a bit tangy, make that very tangy. Its lemony finish dominated its palate, so much so that it left a sour impression. Some food cut the sourness, but the ’83 remained a bit wild, weedy and tangy. It was another vintage that didn’t live up to its reputation, or its rating that everyone relies on (93).
1982 was a great vintage for red Bordeaux, but not so much for white. I am not sure I believe that sentiment anymore after having the 1982 d’Yquem. There was more mint here, ‘similar’ to the 1983 per the lady on my right. It had a smoky nose with some exotic spice. There were lots of wild greens, and then it hit me – mint jelly! The palate had it, too, and it finished well. This is an undervalued and underappreciated Yquem that put on a good show, stealing it from the ’83 (95).
The 1981 d’Yquem had a ‘smoky’ nose with a bit of turned milk and unfamiliar forest. There was candle wax and dry brulee there in the nose and the palate, and the Copperhead remarked how its ‘palate was better than nose.’ I agreed. There were pleasant rocky flavors on its finish, and more bitters emerged in this ‘very acidic’ Yquem (91).
The Burger Is Always Well Done
The 1979 d’Yquem was another sleeper, surprisingly clean and fresh. Honey was there, but not in an open way; in fact, this was shier than expected. Smokehouse and stonewall accompanied dry caramel in its nose, and in the end this was really the most classic of the entire flight. This was right down the middle, lighter than the ’82 or ’83 but more classy. Caramel ice cream and candle wax flavors rounded out this excellent Yquem. This is a steal at auction, by the way, when it rarely comes up (94).
She Said Her Name Was Amber
The next Yquem was quite exotic, possessing more mango and passion fruit. The 1976 d’Yquem reeked of decadence and pleasure. This was a heavy and thick Yquem, quite sexy, opulent and more concentrated. Someone likened it to the 1989, and this was certainly an extroverted Yquem. There was less vim on its finish than the top-tiered vintages, but it is ‘not gonna go away’ either (95).
The legend delivered on cue, as the 1975 d’Yquem was extraordinary, as always. It was deep, showing more youth than maturity, but wisdom in regard to the latter. The aroma roll call was honey, caramel, nut, brulee, toast and more nut. Its palate was rich and lush with great acidity. This was still a baby, one with adult teeth that could bite into its long finish. I had a flash of 1988, but it really should have been the other way around (99).
The 1975 was a tough act to follow, but the 1971 d’Yquem gave it a good college try. I thought for a second it was corked, but it wasn’t. There were aromas of wintergreen and bacon, and its palate was rich and oily, sweet and bordering on great. It was a touch dirty on its finish, but sometimes I like a dirty finish (94).
Getting Serious
The 1970 d’Yquem was leaner than the ’71, but in the same category qualitatively. There were more cedar, mahogany and wood qualities, along with a great minerality. It felt younger than the ’71, but it wasn’t as opulent. This reminded me of the 1979 with its earthy, long palate (94).
There’s Iron Man, and then there is Gold Man. He found the 1967 d’Yquem ‘where old and new meet,’ and he was right. This was the vintage where you felt that perfect balance between youth and maturity. I guess 46 years old is about right ha ha. The ’67 was so decadent and sweet, with its sugar qualities browning in a good way. It was definitely more mature than anything so far (duh), but it was still so good, and great dust and mineral flavors were on its finish. Its acid was still deceptively strong. This was a hedonistic Yquem that will still age forever (97).
The 1966 d’Yquem had vitamins in its nose, along with rose and potpourri. This was another Yquem in the more exotic category. There were a hint of bathroom flavors in that potpourri direction, but this was a solid Yquem (93).
The 1962 d’Yquem had a candle wax and peanut brittle nose. There was real vigor here in regards to nose. This had smoky and nutty greatness, along with some red hues that carried over to its palate with red fruits, in an October hunt kind of way. There were nice fruit and caramel flavors, and a long, stylish finish to this classic Yquem. Its acid was great, and Philippe found it ‘ethereal with no heaviness’ (95).
The 1961 d’Yquem was much browner with sugar and cola in its nose, Dr. Brown’s celery soda to be precise. Its palate was round and sweet with cola flavors but also a touch medicinal. Tangy and smoky, the ’61 had a hint of sour, although its acid was holding well (92).
I Told You So
There were six vintages to go, and four of them were legendary, the first of which was the 1959 d’Yquem. Its nose was all about the caramel, more crÃÂme caramel than any other wine before. Its texture was perfect, with great balance between its oil and cut. It was so delicious in a just right spot. Its acid was mid-level, and ‘great’ and ‘superb’ kept coming up in my notes. There was ‘a lot of sugar’ here from this hot vintage, but it didn’t come across overly sweet (98).
The 1958 d’Yquem was much more mature despite being only a year older. This was the first in molasses territory with hints of Madeira goodness. The palate was similar yet tasty. This was sugary sweet in a more mature way with cola and Madeira flavors yet solidly so. Gold Man noted ‘honey raisin.’ While some may have found this advanced, it was still on the enjoyable side of the curve for me (91).
The 1953 d’Yquem was a bit weird with aromas of hay, animal, stable and almost some paint thinner. There was some alley and wet dog here, and this was my least favorite of the day so far. I even found alligator action, and that’s not a good thing. I couldn’t help but wonder if it was the bottle or the vintage (88?).
Older is Better
The last flight was comprised of three of the greatest vintages of Yquem…ever. In fact, I think if you took a five year window, you would not find a better trio of Yquem…ever. We began this climactic finish with the 1949 d’Yquem. There was a divine nose here with amber love, butterscotch and butter rum. Its nose was perfectly suntanned, and there was that caramel greatness a la the ’59, but this was heavier. In the end, I preferred the cleanliness of the ’59 by comparison, but that would be splitting hairs. The 1949 was like a bottle of rum raisin with a side of yo ho ho (97).
The 1947 d’Yquem took it up a notch, even though there wasn’t much room to grow. Candle wax, potpourri, straw, beef and almost some lime thai kink graced the nose. The palate was all about caramel and sex. Its acidity stood out, and it was so sexually texturally, I had to check myself. There was a kiss of orange to its ridiculously good flavors (98).
It Was A Very Good Year
The last wine of the afternoon was the 1945 d’Yquem. I have long been a proponent of this being the best vintage of all time, and the Yquem didn’t disappoint. There was more honey and sweetness here, along with noticeable t ‘n a and slate greatness. The minerality and rock solidness of the wine surpassed its rich and creamy fruit in the end, and the wine’s texture was absolutely ridiculous. Wow, wow and then some (99).
Holy Cow
Sweet is better than sour, and when it comes to Yquem, I can safely say ‘pour some sugar on me.’
Lord, I was born a traveling man. I know those aren’t exactly the lyrics, but give me some creative courtesy please, because recently six weeks have seen me all over the world and then some. I’m still not sure if I am coming or going, but if I had to choose, I would always take coming.
This article will be a summation of six weeks in my life, which is about the last time I wrote an article. I will not get as in depth with every wine accordingly. There have been so many incredible wines and places over these six plus weeks, I don’t know where to begin. Then it became clear: just recap it all and let history be recorded. Then it became even clearer, and I had to paraphrase from the extremely talented and gifted Michael Madrigale, wine director of some of the Boulud Empire, hence assigning only three words per wine; otherwise, I would never get through this epic article. I’m getting older, I know.
Rare Selfie
Everything always starts in New York City. I know I am biased in regards to the hometown where I have lived 42 straight years, but it really is the genesis of many people, places and things. And when it comes to wine, there still isn’t a city that throws down as hard as NYC. There may be people in other cities that drink as well, and as often, but the collective wine drinking energy in NYC is second to none.
There was a celebration at Costata of Two Cellars that we sold a month or so ago, and it went a little something like this, hit it:
The wine of the night was the 1996 DRC La Tache. 1996 is a controversial vintage, not adored by all Burgundy lovers. Too much acid, not enough fruit, that’s the knock. The great ones are just starting to blossom, however, and this LT was a perfect example. It was ‘almost open,’ I wrote, fragrant with its bacon, garden, ham, salami and other assorted deli meats. Rose oil dripped in and out of this long and great wine. ‘Cocaine’ actually came from the crowd, but I’ll take credit (96).
There was a Volnay and a Leroy flight, but I was too busy making the rounds and didn’t take notes, and then there was a 1999 flight at Charlie Bird after the fact, featuring Rousseau, Mugnier, Angerville and others. I can’t exactly remember, so I must be coming up short. The next night I was off to Brazil. Yes, Brazil, that country hosting the World Cup and the Olympics, the B in BRIC, an amazing world just starting to awaken on a global level. It was an exciting and blurry week full of old and new friends, amazing places and great wines. It left me yearning more for this great country.
Feeling Special
I arrived in the AM, and lunch taught me immediately that the B in Brazil starts with Bordeaux:
1982 Lynch Bages Beef, classic, smooth (94)
2004 Margaux Wood, cassis, time(93)
Central Park in Sao Paulo
Brazilian Hamptons
Dinner was at one of the most magnificent homes I have ever seen, and we had a few very big bottles, most notably one out of Imperial:
2005 Valandraud Tasty, red fruits, drinkable(93I)
Welcome to the Jungle
Fruit Loops Rule
How Many Guys Does it Take to Open a Salmanazar?
I choppered outside of Sao Paulo to a gorgeous country home with its own private zoo, but we drank like gentlemen, including:
1962 Cheval Blanc Lush, winter, carnivorous(95)
1989 La Mission Haut Brion Oceanic, black, wealthy(97+)
1995 Pegau Chat du Pape Cuvee Reserve 9L Strawberry, silk, soft(92S)
Deep in the Bordeaux Rabbit Hole
A is for Ausone
I went to the capital city, my first trip to Brasilia. We did a blind dance featuring myself and Brazil’s top sommelier, along with the US Ambassador, and we all drank together, some more than others:
We also raided the cellar for some DRC and Leroy amongst others, but it was crowded in there, so no additional notes, sorry. My favorite wine of this lunch was the 2003 Margaux, although I will admit the crowd favored Lafite by 3 to 1! Manuel noted in the Margaux, ‘tobacco and coffee.’ The plus in my rating was for deliciousness as opposed to potential, as the ’03 Margaux was spilling out of its shirt. It was very forward, with the full sex appeal of 2003 on display. Hints of garden, chocolate and pine set the stage for a wine with intense character. This was not another floozy from 2003, as many want everyone to believe. There was excellent acidity in this rock star wine (95+).
I know, a full tasting note is better, forgive me for not writing them all.
If I wrote up the best wine of this meal, it would be the 1990 Margaux or the 1970 Petrus, but delicious trio of the 1997 Margaux and those two ’76s had me thinking more. Wines like those can exceed expectations; the great ones can only meet them. However, given that I don’t want this article to take an additional month to write, let’s talk about the 1970 Petrus. I have written up this wine many times, and this was a superb bottle. Chocolate and plums were in perfect harmony, and this wine’s sweetness and thickness were both second to none. Spices like cinnamon abounded; this was a wine with a mature knowledge lacking in these other young bucks. Speaking of bucks, the ’70 Petrus is still quite reasonable compared to other Petrus young bucks (97).
I also had dinner, resulting in 1970 Cheval Blanc twice in a day out of two formats.
1970 Cheval Blanc Same, warm, inviting(93)
1950 Lafite Rothschild VA, egg white, creepy(92)
1989 La Mission Haut Brion Midnight, chocolate, full(97+)
1989 Ausone Milk, dust, yeasty (91)
My last night in Rio saw me with The Shocker. He is much better in Rio 2 than in Spider Man 2. We ended with a trio of 98 and 99 point Cali Cabernets.
2000 Krug Clos du Mesnil Thick, citrus, grit(95)
1990 Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon Mint, violet, ham(95)
It was very difficult for me to differentiate amongst these young, sweet Calis. Perhaps my palate needs more time to appreciate them as much as others, but it was a Margaux kind of week for me, basically a mini-vertical over the course of a few days. The 1995 Margaux was very open and forward, pleasing with its coffee, tobacco, cassis and black forest aromas and flavors. Its palate was soft and silky (95+).
I headed south, close to the border to meet El Gordo for the biggest dinner of them all. I know, he sounds like a drug dealer, but he is actually one of Brazil’s most enthusiastic wine lovers, even if he sells by the ounce and pound lol.
1.
1985 Krug
Orangesicle, vanilla, zip (95+)
2.
1992 Ramonet Montrachet
Corn, kink, peacock (98)
3.
1988 DRC La Tache
Weeds, black rose, yeast blossom (94)
4.
1966 Latour
Walnut, cassis, harmony (96)
5.
1945 Calon Segur
Chanel box, leather, monster (97)
6.
1961 Haut Brion
Cooked (DQ)
7.
1961 Lafleur
Cooked (DQ)
8.
1959 Latour
Classic, fresh, deep ocean (97)
9.
1928 Latour
Bandaid, thick, chalky (95)
10.
1961 Ducru Beaucaillou
Garden, green, tobacco (93)
11.
1928 Suduiraut
Mahogany, honey, bikini wax (94)
La La La
This evening was extraordinary, enough so that I can’t just give one wine all the credit. As far as white wines go, it doesn’t get much better than the 1992 Ramonet Montrachet. Its amazing nose was sweet, nutty and fruity, with tree bark, corn, kink and rainwater aromas. It was incredibly complex and concentrated. I could taste it a minute later, and the drop of banana on its finish blended well into its peacock tail of acidity. This was a spectacular wine, possessing unreal greatness and transcending the vintage. Caramel coated the glass as my last sip became an everlasting memory (98) .
Let’s also talk about the 1945 Calon Segur. In my humble opinion, 1945 is the greatest vintage of all-time; well, at least the 20th Century. It is stunningly great everywhere, and this Calon was no exception. Cedar, meat and new Chanel box dripped out of the nose, and its rustic edge gave a little pepperoni appeal. ‘Horse sweat’ and ‘aged leather’ came from the crowd, and there was great acidity and pinpoint balance to this stunning wine. This was a beautiful, and delicious, monster (97).
Wine of the Vintage
The 1959 Latour was not surprisingly great. There was gorgeous fruit to this fresh bottle. Walnut, cassis, minerals and cedar performed together like a great quartet. This was ‘deep ocean,’ and its thick and long finish still came across elegantly (97).
I went to Hong Kong, even though there wasn’t an auction, but I lost my notes. I hate it when that happens. There was a bit of a Burgundy Paulee, and over 30 wines were tasted, the best of which was a stunningly delicious 1991 Dujac Clos de la Roche (97).Dagnabbit!
Literally the next day I was back in NYC at about 130pm, and by 430pm I was with Antonio Galloni, arriving at Del Posto for Tuscany in the City, although we drank more than Tuscany had to offer. Bad Boy, The Punisher, The Rev, The Hedonist and even Restaurant Joe showed up, and the pre-party was almost as good as the post-party. Suffice it to say, the legend of Bad Boy grew by about two times thanks to The Ice Princess and The Bad Ass Bitch. They chose their own names by the way. Soldera was the wine of the night, and per The Ice Princess, ‘it slid down the throat as smoothly as…’ Shit, I can’t read my writing again…seriously…
Pictures Help Memory
The Pre-Tasting:
1.
1986 Ramonet Bienveues Batard
Lush, zippy, atypical (95)
2.
1976 Philipponat Clos Goisses
Wheaty, rusty, orange (93M)
3.
1961 Krug Collection
Vanilla, earth, imperfect (94A)
4.
1996 Leflaive Bienveues Batard
Corndust, long, mineral (95)
5.
1996 Niellon Chevalier
Mature, honeydew, caramel (93)
6.
1978 DRC Richebourg
Complete, powerful, epiphany (97)
7.
1982 Krug Clos du Mesnil
Tight, might, lift (97)
8.
1990 Tignanello
Sauce, spice, grandma (94)
9.
1989 Leroy Latricieres Chambertin
Gas, grain, exotic (94+)
10.
1900 Lafite Rothschild
Tender, tertiary, creamy (93)
11.
1976 Salon
White fruit, easy, delicious (95M)
12.
1961 Moet RD
Grass, wheat, vim (91M)
The Main Event:
1.
1982 Soldera
Deep, beast, perfect (97)
2.
1985 Soldera
Funky, corked, stewed (DQ)
3.
1986 Soldera
Tasty, nutty, outstanding (95)
4.
1987 Soldera
Darker, blacker, disgruntled (93)
5.
1988 Soldera
Dense, leathery, spicy (96)
6.
1993 Soldera
Buttery, honeyed, beany (93)
7.
2001 Felsina Chianti Riserva Rancia
Yolk, dry, tasty (92)
8.
2002 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Fr.
Baked, gamey, exotic (94)
9.
1980 Solaia
Greenbean, smooth, goodness (90)
10.
2002 Jacques Selosses
Verve, rich, bready (95)
11.
1982 Pol Roger Winston Churchill
Vitamins, cream, full (94)
12.
1961 Ducru Beaucaillou
Soft, green pepper, plush (93)
13.
1994 Masseto
Milky, cola, round (93)
14.
1995 Soldera
Rich, buttery, luscious (93)
15.
1989 DRC Montrachet
Weedy, thorny, awkward (92)
16.
2001 DRC Montrachet
Creamy, smoky, delicious (95)
17.
1985 DRC Richebourg
Autumnal, dirty, rose hips (94M)
18.
1999 Soldera
Solid, big, classic (94)
19.
2000 Soldera
Redder, lush, smack (93)
20.
2001 Soldera
Soft, smooth, disappointing (91)
21.
1990 Soldera
Meat, materials, longest (97+)
Warming Up
I Am Legend
This evening was really about Soldera. As good as the 1978 DRC Richebourg and 1982 Krug Clos du Mesnil were, I will write first about the 1982 Soldera. This was a rare beast, and a good descriptor. Fresh, shy yet deep, this was a perfect bottle of aged Soldera, and its palate revealed red cherry, leather and that Soldera twang that makes it so unique. Fleshy and chewy, it left a vivid imprint on my palate and on my mind (97).
While the 1985 was off, the 1986 was another stunner, definitely in the outstanding category with its tasty, nutty character. The 1987 was deeper, darker and bigger, but its personality didn’t exude as much pleasure as the 1986. 1988 was another outstanding example, ‘rocking’ and consistent with its dusty, spicy, leathery and sandpapery qualities. There was great acidity in this ‘different experience.’ The 1993 was another theoretically lesser year that delivered above its weight class. It was rich and buttery, honeyed and delicious with signature profiles. ‘Burnt beans’ added to the usual twang. 1995 added egg yolks to the usual mix, arguably part of the usual twang. The 1999 was also solid, while the 2000 was one of the redder fruit wines of the family.
Tuscany’s Greatest Wine
The 2001 was the only disappointing one, and the 2004 was just too young and too sweet at this point. The 1990 was a monster, a man amongst boys even by Soldera’s standards. It is arguably one of the greatest Italian wines made, ever. Got my Soldera paragraph in, I feel better now. That deserves its own article, but it is just one part of one night during this insane stretch, and about thirty notes are already missing!
I stayed in New York, and later that week we had another Acker Paulee, again in honor of the Tale of Two Cellars auction that would happen two days later. After thirty-two wines, I stumbled out of there in fine, Acker fashion.
1.
1990 Dom Perignon Rose
Tight, vitamin, solid (94M)
2.
1979 Roederer Cristal
Butterscotch, gold, dry (95)
3.
2000 Dujac Echezeaux
Trees, stems, woodsy (92)
4.
2000 Drouhin Montrachet MdL
Corn, long, delicious (95)
5.
1973 Dom Perignon
Wheat, bittersweet, even-keeled (94)
6.
1969 Dom Perignon (RD)
Mushroom, sweet, yellow (95)
7.
1975 Dom Perignon (RD)
Grass, weeds, fresh (94+)
8.
1996 Dom Leflaive Batard
Yellowstone, full, acid (96)
9.
1996 Dom Leflaive Chevalier
Closed, minerals, potential (95+)
10.
1983 Dom Leflaive Chevalier
Rainwater, sweet, stones (93M)
11.
2001 Dom Leflaive Batard
Ripe, tender, one-dimension (93)
12.
1995 Bouchard Chevalier
Mature, caramel, drinkable (92)
13.
1993 Leroy Vosne Beauxmonts
Deep, black, signature (95)
14.
1991 Leroy Vosne Beauxmonts
Corked (DQ)
15.
1990 Leroy Vosne Beauxmonts
Fatter, sandy, gritty (92)
16.
1998 Dujac Clos de la Roche
Delicate, purple, long (93M)
17.
1990 Rouget Vosne Cros P
Green, goodness, thickens (95)
18.
1990 Rouget Echezeaux
Weighty, black, smooth (93)
19.
1995 Dujac Clos de la Roche
Hard, full, solid (93M)
20.
1980 Jacqueline Jayer Echezeaux
Animal, wild, funky(93)
21.
1991 DRC Grands Echezeaux
Ready, delicious, DRC (95)
22.
1990 DRC Grands Echezeaux
Thicker, complex, equal (95)
23.
1990 DRC Romanee St. Vivant
Slutty, smoother, spice (95)
24.
1991 DRC Romanee St. Vivant
Extravagant, sexy, spin (95)
25.
1985 DRC Richebourg
Delicious, spectacular, wow (97)
26.
1990 Dujac Clos de la Roche
Everlasting, core, purple (97)
It’s a DRC World
Four of a Kind
There was more, but I can’t remember it all. There was a disappointing Roumier Bonnes Mares flight at the end with some big-time vintages, but I will chalk that up to palate fatigue, although La Machina had the same observation. Theory number two is that the two last wines not only exceeded everything before them, but possibly destroyed everything thereafter as well. They were superlative, spectacular wines, but by that point, my writing wasn’t so much so.
Next thing I know I was in LA, where Uncle Matty was hosting a Royal Order of Purple Palate dinner with Bipin, Hollywood Jef, The Good Doctor, Say It Ain’t Joe and the rest of the gang. Down at the Bar of Republique, I had by the glass:
Ah, Malibu
1.
1981 Vega Sicilia Unico
Leather, cream, semi (94)
2.
2002 Cristal
Too young but gets credit, not 3 words (92)
3.
1999 Marcassin Ch Marcassin Vyd
Rhonish, kinky, SQN? (93)
4.
1992 Lafon Meursault Charmes
Elegant, wax, honey (94)
5.
2007 Lafon Meursault Charmes
Round, tasty, simpler(93)
6.
1978 Camille Giroud Corton
Oatmeal, dusty, interesting (93)
7.
1978 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo
Tar, desert, sweet (94)
8.
1978 Chalone Pinot Noir
Menthol, candy, complicated (94)
9.
1971 Ridge Cabernet
Stinky, tangy, off (DQ)
10.
1971 Ridge Cab Eisele Vyd
Asphalt, chocolate, earth (96)
11.
1971 Ridge Cab Monte Bello
Same earth, cassis, ripe (93)
Whites of Different Feathers
There was another flight, but it was off the record…the 1971 Ridge Cabernet Eisele Vineyard had that good, old-fashioned, California Cabernet nose. There were lots of cedar and asphalt aromas, with leather, earth and chocolate flavors supporting its ripe palate. There was a drop of honey to this open and sexy red (95).
A First Growth From California
The next day I was at Spago for lunch, a lunch of Lafleur and Petrus, organized by the Godfather, but influenced by The Catalyst and The Bordeauxinator. It was good to see Bordeaux being opened in the USA, and even better that it was two of the Right Bank’s biggest names.
1.
1985 Lafleur
Mint, apricot, cranberry (93)
2.
1989 Lafleur
Brooding, deeper, wound (97)
3.
1993 Petrus
Plum, olive, underrated (93)
4.
1990 Lafleur
Effusive, cherry bomb, jam (95)
5.
2000 Lafleur
Regal, saucy, fantastic (98)
6.
1970 Petrus
Flamboyant, coconut, mocha (95A)
7.
1975 Petrus
Fresh, cherry, perfect (96)
8.
1982 Petrus
Velvet, citrus, olive (97)
Speaks For itself
Yum
Petrus and Lafleur always make for an excellent debate, and as impressive as the ’82 Petrus was, as great as the ’89 Lafleur (usually) was, and as delicious as the ’75 Petrus (usually) was, the 2000 Lafleur stole the show. Talk about benchmark. This was a monstrous wine that was surprisingly accessible, with loads of fruit. When I say accessible, it’s kind of like Mount Everest being accessible. There was still a long road ahead for this wine to develop and unfurl. Rich, saucy, plum fruit came across regally, and its thick finish was fantastic. This was Pomerol at its finest (98).
I went straight to a massage, and then straight to dinner at SLS. There were numerous, fabulous people, most notably Hollywood Jef and The Rev, although there were more recognizable people in the restaurant and at our table.
1.
1996 Krug
Classic, 96, always (95)
2.
1989 Krug Clos du Mesnil
Big, honey, royalty (97+)
3.
2006 Dom Leflaive Batard
Sweet, yellow, lush (94)
4.
2001 Dom Leflaive Chevalier
Botrytis, stone, fine (93)
5.
1985 Drouhin Chevalier
Shellfish, horsesweat, weird (88A)
6.
2001 Clos des Papes
Floral, dominatrix, kink (92)
7.
1928 Paternina Rioja G Reserva
Caramel, smooth, dust (92)
8.
1954 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia
Beautiful, tasty, long (92)
9.
1986 Pesquera Janus
Catbox, smoke, red fruit (90)
10.
1991 Pesquera Janus
Old closet, thick, peculiar (92)
11.
1994 Pesquera Janus
Great, yeast, progression (94)
12.
1970 Vega Sicilia Unico
Creamy sex, leather, delicious (97)
13.
1962 La Mission Haut Brion
Gravel, dark, improves (93)
14.
1982 Pichon Lalande
Silky, peanut, tasty (95)
15.
1986 Margaux
Squirrel, ammonia, eh (DQ)
16.
1985 Mascarello Barolo
Smooth, tar, leather (94)
17.
2003 Pegau Chateauneuf Capo
Booberry, crack, juice (93)
More Of That Good Stuff
I didn’t get much time to take an in-depth note of the Krug, but I did for the 1970 Vega Sicilia Unico, which was still very young despite being 44! The Rev commented that it was ‘not as exotic and as open as other vintages,’ and 1981, 1973 and 1962 were mentioned. However, that was not to detract from the 1970, which was deep, earthy, leathery and creamy. Vanilla sex was the flavor that summed up its awesomeness (97).
I think that was it. I got a couple of Hollywood hugs, although I haven’t had as many Hollywood laughs since hanging with Hollywood Jef for 48 hours. He is one of the most comedic geniuses ever, and I love comedy. By the time I sobered up, I was in Burgundy. The Mogul and I had a date, and the women were in tow.
Burgundy
I ran into many people unexpectedly, most notably The Punisher. I tasted a lot of wines, went to Lameloise, but I wrote up only one event. We had a party, celebrating Etienne de Montille’s birthday, and numerous Domaines were well represented in person and in the bottle.
What 3 Stars Looks Like in Burgundy
1.
2011 De Montille Puligny Caillerets
Honeysuckle, sauce, cream (93)
2.
2007 Delarche Corton Charlemagne
Sweet, minerals, driven (94)
3.
2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
Ripe, honey, dry (92)
4.
2006 Drouhin Montrachet Laguiche
Heavy, botrytis, endless (95)
5.
2004 Drouhin Clos des Mounes Blanc
Grass, rainwater, sweet (92)
6.
1979 Ch de la Tour Clos Vougeot
Souis bois, raspberry, twisted (94M)
7.
1961 Engel Vosne Romanee 1erCru
Orange, anise, tobacco (93)
8.
1941 Moignon Amoureuses
VA, teriyaki, nectar (93A)
9.
1988 Leroy NSG Boudots
Kick, musk, rust, pretty (93)
10.
1989 Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot
Gamey, buttery, square (93)
11.
1990 Engel Clos Vougeot
Celery soda, strawberries, fresh herbs (94)
12.
1980 DRC Romanee St. Vivant
Classic, menthol, iron (96)
13.
2000 Chandon des Briailles Pernand V.
Solid, bright, character (90)
14.
1994 Chave Hermitage mag
Roasted, mint, provencal (94M)
15.
1974 Ridge Monte Bello
Cedar, ocean, supple (94)
16.
1963 Taylor
Happy, Birthday, Etienne (96)
The 1980 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was a classic DRC from an underrated vintage. It has a great nose full of menthol, iron, blood, mint and spice. This wine was the definition of sous bois in a delicious way, and its rich, saucy and spicy palate had great texture to do with its mature flavors. Hubba hubba (96).Speaking of sous bois, the 1979 Chateau de la Tour Clos Vougeot got an honorary mention for old, earthy goodness. Tobasco, ripe raspberry, cassis and wet fur all competed for my attention. There was this twisted citrus and earth combination, this just right touch of Worcestershire brown, and slaty fruit. It had the best of both old and young (94M).
The next best thing was a weekend in Nantucket, headlined by Gentleman Jim, Lady Agah, Semi-Wild Bill and Jenny P. We would not have been there were it not for Magic Mark, and his entourage, of course. The Nantucket Wine Festival is a great event to kick off summer, and I highly recommend you go next year and enjoy the Acker Merrall VIP experience.
Nantucket
On the first night, we did 1989. As in Bordeaux, beginning with:
1.
1989 Talbot
Green bean, cassis, bite (90)
2.
1989 Leoville Barton
Fuller, woodsy, square (91+)
3.
1989 Cos d’Estournel
Paprika, purple, polished (93)
4.
1989 Montrose
Shy yet voluptuous, black, fantastic (96)
5.
1989 Pontet Canet
Dry, austere, tight (88)
6.
1989 Pichon Lalande
Smooth, elegant, drinkable (93)
7.
1989 Lafite Rothschild
Pencil, elegant, weight (94)
8.
1989 Lynch Bages
Big, huge, brute (95+)
9.
1989 La Mission Haut Brion
Chocolate, blueberry, toffee (97)
10.
1989 La Fleur Petrus
Garden, tobacco, tight (93)
11.
1989 L’Evangile
Wet, wheat, fleshy (93)
12.
1989 La Conseillante
Caressing, plum, spicy (96)
13.
1989 Clinet
Big, round, square (94)
This was my third 1989 La Mission Haut Brion of this article, so I guess I will finally pay official homage. Consistently great, the thing about the ’89 La Miss is its wealth of fruit. Black, blue and purple still often masquerade like a barrel sample in this youthful behemoth. Sweetness is at the core of this ‘chocolaty,’ ‘BBQ,’ ‘blueberry’ and toffee extravaganza. It is opulent, and certainly a 100-year wine, although I am still, and always have been, in the Haut Brion camp when it comes to these dueling legends (97).
The next day we tasted in the afternoon, as in 1999 Red Burgundies, blind to change things up. We took votes for first, second and third place, maybe fourth. Votes for first place would be four if four votes, three for second place, etc. Below is in order served:
1999 Red Burgundy
1.
1999 Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons
Nutty, rusty, leaner (88) 11th place, no votes
2.
1999 Groffier Bonnes Mares
Pungent, animal, cerise (94) 2nd place, 28 votes
3.
1999 Jadot Chambertin Clos de Beze
Austere, tight, black (92+) 8th place, 4 votes
4.
1999 Ponsot Clos de la Roche VV
Mushroom, white pepper, ripe (93) 10th place, 2 votes
White chocolate butter cream’, meat, long (96) 3rd place, 27 votes
9.
1999 Faiveley Mazis Chambertin
Olive, citrus, lean n mean (93) 11th place, no votes
10.
1999 Roumier Bonnes Mares
Sauvage, zip, flesh (94) 5th place, 15 votes
11.
1999 DRC Grands Echezeaux
Jam, oaky, herbal (92) 4th place, 21 votes
12.
1999 Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot
Thick, long, serious (96+) 1st place, 37 votes!
The Drouhin Chambertin (which is all Clos de Beze by the way) had serious, deep, black fruit. It had the best acidity of the day so far; some of the 1999s can lack a little due to the major fruit of the vintage. That’s the knock for those that want to detract from this great vintage, but there are more success stories than anything else, for sure. There was ‘a real sense of terroir,’ and a long, flavorful finish with kisses of citrus (96+).The 1999 Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot really stole the show at the end. This is definitely what I would call an upset; that’s the beauty of a blind tasting. There are always surprises on the positive and negative side. The Meo was seriously shy in its nose, but it was intriguing and deep. ‘Could be the best wine of the day,’ I wrote. Its thickness and length impressed me, and most others (96+).There’s a lot more to be said about this tasting, but we had to go grab lunch, watch the Preakness, and get ready for Nantucket’s version of La Paulee, or La Fete, as it has been crowned. We started with a couple whites before going deep into the red rabbit hole:
It’s A Party
1.
1999 Drouhin Montrachet Laguiche
Full, flavorful, classic (95)
2.
1989 Trimbach Riesling Frederic Emile
Peach, petrol, minerals (94)
3.
1985 Vogue Bonnes Mares
Gamey, beefy, tea sauce (92)
4.
1978 Murrieta Rioja Ygay Riserva
Vanilla, creamy, delicious (93)
5.
1994 Vega Sicilia Unico
Egg cream, classy, young (95)
6.
1994 Sauzet Montrachet
Rainwater, tropical, impressive (94)
7.
1980 Penfolds Grange
Cherry bomb, saucy, oy oy oy (93)
8.
1989 Mugnier Musigny VV
Brothy, rich, shroom (93)
9.
1971 DRC La Tache
Tomato, beef stew, amazing acid (97)
10.
1983 Haut Brion
Gravel, carob, smooth (93)
11.
1999 Chapoutier Ermitage de L’Oree
Glue, beeswax, viscosity (92)
12.
1987 DRC Grands Echezeaux
Rusty, menthol, solid (93)
13.
1928 La Mission Haut Brion
Library, tobacco road, chewy (94)
14.
1964 Pavie (Imperial)
Stony, dark, excellent (93I)
15.
1970 Vieux Chateau Certan
Pure, lean, classic (92)
16.
1982 Lafite Rothschild
Satin, definition, refined (95)
17.
1945 Mouton Rothschild
Deep, deeper, deepest (98)
18.
1955 Cantina Masarello Barolo
Leather, tobacco, brown sugar (95M)
19.
1989 La Mission Haut Brion
See yesterday’s notes (97+)
20.
Wickedly good hallucinogenic Yellow Chartreuse (97+)
Wickedly good hallucinogenic Yellow Chartreuse (97+)
Beauty & the Beast
It was a fast and furious evening, and I didn’t take my best notes, but it was nice to cap another legendary adventure with two legends like the 1971 DRC La Tache and the 1945 Mouton Rothschild. The La Tache was brothy and beefy with an amazing tomato stew and outstanding acidity, while the Mouton was just everything one could ask for in an older Bordeaux. Despite other legends like ’89 La Mission (again!) and 1982 Lafite, there was clearly one Bordeaux a head and shoulders above the rest.
The most unique experience of the trip was my last, an authentic, French, old school Chartreuse outlawed in the US due to the use of wormwood, which apparently gives off some hallucinogenic action. These can only legally be acquired in France, and there is one book that has all the recipes for the different batches, which are blends of different vintages, and the one we had was from the mid-sixties. This was the after-dinner drink to end all after-dinners. This was like a Mayweather knockout blow; I can’t believe I drank the whole thing. There wasn’t much gas left in the tank after that, and two auctions in two cities were approaching over the next two weeks. Time to do it all over again.
About two weeks ago, I went to Chicago just for dinner, and it was well worth the trip. Being the “Capone” that I am often called by random people all over the world, I figured it would be nice to see some of the wine gang in town, so I called the X-Factor, and, as they say, it was done.
A magnum of 1990 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill welcomed me, still young out of magnum. It was bready and rusty with aromas of white fruits and minerals. The X-Factor was first to reveal his wine superpowers, commenting ‘very ’90, very ripe’ (95+M).
Two Leflaives followed, the first being a stellar 1999 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet. It had a classic nose full of sweet yellow fruit, wet rain and rock. It was sweet and musky, ‘lush fat and sexy’ per the X-Factor. Its palate was also rocky with an edgy quality. Over time, more corn and sweetness came out, but this was first and foremost a muscly 1999, full and deliciously typical (95).
The 2002 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet was unfortunately off (DQ).
We went deep on first and ten with a 1971 DRC Richebourg courtesy of the X-Factor. He was making his presence felt early and often. Ten years ago, this was his best wine ever, and it was still pretty damn close. Hulkamania found it ‘beefy,’ and there were also aromas of rose hips, vitamins, earth, saddle sweat and a touch of menthol. Hulkamania continued, hailing the ’71 ‘tasty bitches.’ There was some oceanic action in its nose, but I couldn’t quite identify how. The X-factor found it ‘mineral driven.’ Its palate was red and black cherry with a spicy, ‘wasabi’ like finish, observed the Earlycomer, who is always first to arrive. Its flavors had a kiss of brine, but its incredible acid had Magnum Man feeling like he was ‘driving a John Deere tractor.’
It was a very good year and mine
The Earlycomer then added that it was more like a ‘girl in sexy knickers on a tractor.’ He then proceeded to come all over himself lol. I’m still not sure if it was the girl or the Richebourg (96).
A 1971 Arnoux Romanee St.Vivant was reconditioned and not up for the challenge. It was metallic, almost like bad fish tank. It got better, moving in a bamboo and wet frog direction, if that can be a positive thing. It was soft and lush but still weedy and fuzzy (88).
There was an ‘intermezzo’ per The Earlycomer. He was back rather quickly, quite persistent. All attention was required for the 1990 Leroy Romanee St. Vivant. This was a big wine, fitting of the reputation that preceded its bringer, Mr. John Holmes. Yes, reports of his demise were premature, as there is a John Holmes alive and well in Chicago. Even Rollergirl wheeled on by later and pecked him on his cheek. Back to the Leroy, which had aromas of deep fruit and black forest, along with Gretel and all her friends. The Earlycomer noted ‘layers of glycerin and density’ and then proceeded to come all over himself again. There was a touch of cola and a little gas to this slick and thick red. It was full and fresh with black flavors, long like its owner (95).
Intermezzo
We went back to the older with a 1969 Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze. The Earlycomer was loving it and its earthy, wheaty and pop tart goodness. Its palate was meaty, rich, full and fleshy for a 1969. There was a tree bark to its palate in a solid way (93).
The 1976 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze was menthol city, ‘square for Rousseau,’ someone noted. The X-Factor admired its concentration, especially given the vintage. Its palate was gritty with great spice, great acidity and great dryness. This was impressive for a 1976, which would make sense since Rousseau probably makes the best wines in the worst years, in addition to making the best wines in the best years. This was an open and sexy wine, flirting with 95 points with its weedy spice, hot rock and wheaty bushel (94).
Oldies and goodies
Unico! We had four vintages on tap between 1959 and 1965, and the glove fit except for John Holmes. We started with a superb 1959 Vega Sicilia Unico. Coffee, yogurt and mocha were all spilling out of its nose, soon joined thereafter by great gingerbread and gumdrop. This nose was beyond exotic, like a half Brazilian, half Chinese girl who went to college in London. This vintage was Burgundian in character, except for the so much coffee thing happening. There was a nice finish to this outstanding wine, which kept getting better. The Earlycomer noted ‘butterscotch candy.’ We all know what happened next (96).
Ay ay ay ay
The 1960 Unico that followed was blacker as in berries, shut down in the nose but solid in the mouth. It was a bit slatier and thicker than the ’59, but it had nice body, like asphalt without the sun. Its big finish was admired by all of the above (93).
There was only one place to go next, the 1961 Unico, of course. Its nose was coffee, chocolate and wheat, ‘more depth’ per the Hulkamania. It was long and balanced, also Burgundian like the 1959, with red cherry and leather flavors. It kept extending (96).
The 1965 Unico was a bit reduced and ‘muddy.’ Holmes found it ‘less precise’ than the other Unicos, and it was a bit floral and sour at the same time. It had a fleshy and leathery palate, better than its nose for sure (91).
There was one last flight to go, and Latour was up for the challenge. The 1953 Latour had a classic nose with walnut, mineral, spice and great cassis fruit. This was full-bodied for ’53, but its palate fell back into typical mode with a beautiful, long and smooth finish. There were nice tea leaf and slate flavors (93).
The 1955 Latour was like band-aid meets marijuana, with deep fruit supporting the whole operation. Its palate was long and full with sparkling black fruit. Sparkling as in shining, not that this was some sort of Latour Perignon lol. It kept getting better and stronger in the glass (95).
Magnum Man found the 1959 Latour to be a ‘big dark fruit explosion.’ It had a great nose with super spice and the most kink. There was a thickness yet a quickness to its palate, which was long, great and classic in every sense of the word (97).
La la la
Some more damage was done when we went back to the beautiful home cellar of The Earlycomer. We sampled numerous other wines, including 1997 Jadot Chapelle Chambertin (91), 1990 Drouhin Griotte Chambertin (94),and a pair of Italians, a 1982 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva (94) and a 1982 Gaja Sori Tilden (94).I couldn’t keep up with the notes, or the wines, as I think we had another three or four more down in the cellar. It was about that time that I lost track, but at least I didn’t lose my notes. I look forward to losing my way again for another night in the near future with my Chicagoland gang.
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