Vintage Tastings

By John Kapon

Experience the finest and rarest wines in the world through the eyes and palate of Acker Chairman and globally renowned master taster, John Kapon (our “JK”). “Vintage Tastings” is a written journal chronicling the incredible bottles opened at some of the most exclusive tastings, wine dinners, and events all over the globe. These entries represent JK’s commitment to capturing and sharing the ephemeral nature and ultimate privilege of tasting the world’s rarest wines. Although ratings are based on a 100-point scale, JK believes there is no such thing as a 100-point wine. Point scores assigned to each wine are his own personal attempt to quantify the quality of each experience.

Pit stops

This month has seen a lot of pit stops. Here today, gone tomorrow. Like all month, so I guess I am not wiser after all. I have had to channel a lot of my inner Bad Boy to deal with such a road show, but thankfully every day time stops for dinner, and I remember what it is to be civilized again.

I spent a few days in Provence, and I suppose my second night there set a bad precedent for the week: a wedding party that started at 4pm and ended at 330am. Well, at least that was the last time I remember seeing the time. It was a marriage between French and Russian families, and the Russians brought the vodka, and lots of dance floor moves from lots of lovely ladies. I lost two buttons on my shirt and my shoes, but thankfully I made it home in one piece and didn’t fall in any thorny bushes like a couple of others.

That next morning brought a familiar, unpleasant feeling that I would encounter over and over this week: The Hangover (like Part 1000) meets The Traveling Man. Now The Hangover and The Traveling Man really do not get along well, and I do not recommend putting the two in each other’s company, but that’s pretty much what I did from this point out. I scraped myself up at 9am, was on the road at 10am for a four hour drive and arrived right on time for lunch on the sea with The Educator.

Down By The Sea

The Educator is a passionate man whose experience has traveled well beyond the greatest names and greatest vintages, since he has been there and done that as much as anyone. It is discovery that drives him, and he shared some of that passion and wisdom over a wonderful lunch in his summer home. There was a delicious 2002 Delamotte as an aperitif, and it was classy, smooth and delicious, quite drinkable for such a young buck (93).

The Champagne that followed was a beast; we knew it was Salon but we had to guess the vintage. It seemed so young, yet had wisdom about it, much like The Educator himself. Citrus and ‘pink grapefruit’ came from the crowd. This Salon left a Paul Bunyan impression with its bigness and wood. It was yeasty and brawny, yet still fresh and like an infant. The closest I got to guessing was 1979, but this classical 1982 Salon was also some serious heavy metal (97).

The white wine of our lunch program was served completely blind. It was an amazing wine that toured all of France with its complexity. At first, its sexy nose had me leaning in a buttery Chardonnay direction, but one sip made it clear this was no Chardonnay. It almost had the dried white fruits of a great white Bordeaux, but this was much more exotic and sweet, possessing a different overall profile. There was a hint of Rhone tropicality, but its sweetness was more delicate despite covering a wide range of yellow tones. This was a complex, ‘precise’ wine, ‘the best wine of Savoie.’ Where? Even I had to ask. Eastern France, South of the Jura, don’t miss that left turn if you want to get some of the 1990 Domaine Dupasquier Rousette de Savoie Marestel. I’m not sure what’s what on the label, so I am just putting it all down lol. The excitement of such a discovery was written all over my face. It was amazing to find something new that was this good. A small smile and twinkle in the eye of The Educator made me know that we were birds of a feather (95).

The Best White Never

The red was also served blind, another ‘wow’ wine. This, too, had an exotic nose with wild red fruits abounding. There was a creaminess here, some sauvage and a Rhone kink. Its palate was as sweet as sweet can get while still being good, and dry. The Paradox noted, ‘sweetness, coffee, mocha, orange.’ He was leaning towards pre-1950 Bordeaux, while I was leaning towards an old Chateauneuf du Pape. Well, it was an Algerian 1945 Frederic Lung Royal-Kebir. Mascarat was the grape, The Educator believed. There was this ‘flower sugar’/nectar thing happening here, and I saw the Chateau Musar lineage of style. For the first time, I understood why desperate and unscrupulous French winemakers would resort to mixing Algerian wines into their reds. ‘This was when Algeria was still good,’ commented The Educator. ‘This wine brings you history’ (95).

More Proof That 1945 is the Greatest Vintage Ever

A 1995 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque paired well with a Camenbert, something I thought impossible, but it actually worked per The Educator’s insistence. The Guigal was rich, full and ‘milky’ per The Paradox. White pepper, violet and a slice of ham rounded out its nose. ‘Delicate, velvet and fraiche’ came from the crowd. This was balanced yet big (94).

The Educator continued to teach after dinner. ‘If you want to know a wine, you have to know all the vintages.’ He referenced the 77 vintages of DRC he has sampled. I did some quick math in my head and put myself at about 60. There is still so much to learn.

There was another new, exciting discovery, a magical place in a faraway land seemingly only known to those who already know it. Those who already know it, and who like their fine wine, would most certainly dine at a certain Michelin-starred restaurant, so that’s just what I did. I have been drinking a lot of dry Rieslings (‘GGs’) this summer, so I couldn’t resist grabbing a half-bottle of one of Riesling’s top dogs right now, a 2009 Keller Kirschspiel GG. This had a fantastic nose that was clearly great and sweet with its citrus and lychee fruit, but also taut with a refreshingly cold minerality. There was nice petrol giving this some go, and it bristled on its palate. There was a satiny, tender and long finish to this delicious virtuoso. This goes under the ‘pure pleasure’ category (94).

#1 German Seed

I also couldn’t resist grabbing a reasonable 1989 Vogue Musigny Blanc off the list, it had been a while since I have seen one of these. There was a pinch of fresh mint in its nose, along with buttered corn, honey and a sweet yellow Chartreuse kiss. The wine felt fully mature but plateauing. It certainly hasn’t turned the corner, although it may be getting close. The palate was luscious and smooth with a soft finish. It got a bit more creamy and chewy in the glass, and a touch of críÂme brulee flavors emerged. By the way, I believe this wine, after years of being released under a Bourgogne Blanc label due to a replanting of the vineyard, is now about to be released again as Musigny Blanc (93).

Coming Back Soon to a Theater Near You

I certainly couldn’t resist a bottle of 1996 Roumier Chambolle Musigny Amoureuses at 210 euros. The Roumier had a gorgeous nose full of roses, red fruits, royal garden and a kiss of waterfall. There was crazy Asian and forest spice abounding, but its palate was a bit more reserved. It was more tender than most ’96s, still with a hint of the vintage’s strong acid but simplistically satiny. I felt the wine was a bit shut down, however (94+).

Swallows of 1986 Mouton Rothschild (96+) and 1974 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard (96) were most welcome at the end of the night, as some other guests had left a smidge in their bottles. ‘This is what we do every night,’ the sommelier smiled.

Only For The Lovers

Another day, another city, and this time I was in Germany, lunching somewhere that was also a new discovery, called Vendome. This was a three-star restaurant that felt like one from head to Tokyo. I have eaten in about eight or so three-star restaurants this year, but to be honest, they can be as disappointing as they can be exciting. This was the best and most exciting meal that I have had this year. Chef Joachim Wissler is at the top of his game, and everything about the meal was spectacular, including the wines.

Proper Three Star Restaurant Location

I had lunch with The Aginator, a ‘no bullshit’ kind of guy and longstanding friend who doubles as a nice bodyguard when abroad. Any problem will soon be no problem when The Aginator is around. We went back to the Keller, this time a 2007 Keller Abts Erde GG. This was another fantastic Keller with aromas of sweet peach and nectarine. This was sweeter than usual, perhaps a function of the vintage or the vineyard, not really sure. Its palate was lush and creamy, soft and sweet (93).

We plucked an unusual 1981 Haut Brion Blanc off the list next. It had a great, yet unique nose that opened up slowly. This was glue city with a touch of good oxidation, aka maturity. It got sweeter in the glass, unfolding into honey, lavender and ‘caramel’ per my friend. The wine also became brothier. This was a smooth and polished wine, like a well-oiled doorknob, and its palate was perfectly mature (93).

Lunch For Two

There were a lot more wines at dinner that night with The Aginator, and more dinners in general, but we’ll save those for another time. Whether it be wines, places or restaurants, new discoveries are always exciting, even if there is only time for a pit stop.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

All Rise

July and Europe always go well together in my world. This past week I spent seven days in seven cities racing across the continent, including one day in four countries. I remember back a few years when I did 18 cities in 26 days. Seven cities sure felt like enough this time; I guess I am getting wiser .

One of my stops had me visiting The Judge, who handed out his usual punishment, 6-8…bottles of wine. He had actually been overcoming the theft of one of his cars earlier in the day, with his girlfriend’s dog still inside. Thankfully, he got the car back. I mean the dog.

There were no dog days of summer thanks to an impressive lineup, which began with something even I have never seen, an old label of NV Jacques Selosses Champagne Blanc de Blancs. I believe Selosses’ first official vintage Champagne was 1985, and this looked and tasted like it preceded that. I would love to know when his first bottling was released, if anyone knows. This bottling had an amazing nose with big honey, butter and caramel. It was singing with its great spice and tea box. The Judge found it ‘so complex’ and lamented that it was his ‘last bottle.’ There was still nice spritz and soda to this delicious, minty Champagne. The Paradox noted how it was ‘crispy yet like an old white.’ The Judge picked up this rare bottle when he bought a cellar; he thinks the value he put on it was about thirty bucks. Hey, it’s not stealing when you’re The Judge lol (95).

Bet You Never Saw That

We knew the next bottle was a Lynch Bages, but not which vintage. The Lynch had a sexy, sweet nose that was still dark and full of chocolate, carob and caramel. There was great dust and spice here. Its palate was gorgeous, make that soft and gorgeous, moving in slow motion like a good Pantene hair commercial. Plush and lush, this 1959 Lynch Bages felt like it was in the right spot at the right time (94+).

A surprisingly good 1929 Haut Simard turned out to be a stunner. At first, it was very dirty, but it fleshed out and revealed great fruit. The Paradox found it ‘punchy’ while G-Girl noted ‘iron.’ There was nice broth to this youthful ’29. The Judge decreed how its ‘freshness (was) incredible.’ Flavors of blackberry, curry, iron and red cherry revealed themselves on this smooth and creamy red. Delicious (94).

Name That Wine

A 1928 Lamouroux was a Margaux, I believe. There was cinnamon and spice there to this relatively fresh wine. It was lighter and leaner in the mouth, possessing less intensity and more water. It was still alive is about the best thing I can say (85).

The Judge pulled out a wine with no label, only fragments of one, as if he had dug this up in an archaeological expedition. This was another incredibly fresh wine, even though we all sensed an ancient presence. The Paradox noted ‘candle’ and ‘Christmas.’ There were pleasant wood components and kisses of good green to go along with dates and coffee in its nose. I guessed 1920s, then The Judge revealed this was an original bottle and cork of 1898 Lafite Rothschild. Wow! The Paradox noted ‘blood.’ Cedar, forest and carob danced in my mouth. This was like a satiny, silk robe of a wine, complete with the pipe and the babe. 116 never tasted so good (97).

Original 1898

We couldn’t get throughout the evening without at least one Burgundy, which was a young, vigorous 1990 Leroy Clos Vougeot. Perhaps the age and maturity of the previous wines made it seem even younger than it was, but it felt almost like a barrel sample! This was Modern Art in the face of a Monet exhibition, still pure and deep with menthol, spice girls and that Leroy rubber tire. Asian spice and licorice also joined the party. The palate was Monaco rich, almost buttery and crazy long. Its finish crackled with big-time fireplace action, but was still smooth (95).

Despite ending on a Burgundy note, this evening showed wherein the greatness of Bordeaux lies, in its age. This age comes in the cellar, whether it be from the Chateau or a private collector. Those that cellar these wines will always be rewarded. The verdict was in.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Wine And The World Cup

All eyes are on Brazil right now. I’m not sure if it is just because of ESPN, but I feel like America is collectively and sincerely paying attention to soccer for the first time. While many from all over the world have descended upon Brazil for this incredible celebration of human spirit, most guys that I know in Brazil are currently in America. Of course, they are watching and rooting passionately for their country, but it’s just too much of a disruption to their normal lives. It’s also a good excuse to come to America, which most of the gentlemen I know there regularly do, and I am glad a few of my Brazilian friends were in New York this past week, led by The Ringmaster, a man after my own heart.

We followed market trends and drank Burgundy, Burgundy, Bordeaux. We started with a stunning 1993 Leroy Corton Charlemagne. This wine was singing from its nose, which was big, smoky, powerful and rich. Sounds like an ideal CEO lol. It had plenty of stick to its butter and rippled with minerals. It was full, round and delicious on the palate with great smoke flavors. Corn popped out of its glass, along with corn pops. The Ringmaster noted ‘pineapple’ in this stylish and long wine. Caramel creamed out of this hot wine’s hot pants (96+).

White Knights

The 1995 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne seemed overwhelmed by the Leroy at first; in fact, almost everyone preferred the Leroy initially. The Coche was certainly more feminine and elegant, and its sensuality got lost amidst the brute force of the Leroy. However, with time, it kept gaining and unfurling into a longer and more intense experience, and in the end I considered the two wines neck and neck despite the clear difference in style. The Coche had more white fruit, some game and was quite exotic with its almost Brazilian fruit (Brazil has some of its own unqiue fruits that are absolutely wild btw). Its palate was creamy, long and sensual. There were nice broth and earth flavors. The Jeweler came back to the Coche and was the first to voice his new found preference. It held with its balance, had great flesh and was in a perfect spot for maturity, albeit it more mature than the Leroy, perhaps. The acidity kept creeping out more and more, and The Ringmaster admired its ‘cotton candy.’ Don’t call it a comeback, it’s been there for years (96).

I used to drink a lot of Romanee Conti, as in RC from DRC, but it has been getting rarer to see them actually opened and drunk these days. A 1982 DRC Romanee Conti reminded me why this is the world’s most expensive wine. At the beginning of the dinner, we were having the La Tache versus RC conversation, and I remarked how La Tache is always better to drink at a younger age, because RC needs about 30 years to start hitting its sweet spot. The 1982 played the role of ‘exhibit A’ perfectly, and 1982 isn’t supposed to be a great vintage for red Burgundy. Jayer also excelled in 1982, showing that a great producer will make great wines every year…or at least 9 out of ten vintages . The RC had a great nose that exuded signature aromas. Autumn, musk, menthol, red fruit and honey all abounded. The wine was fuller than full and longer than long, and it was quite tropical, even possessing a hint of orange. Its nose was super complex, and its palate was elegant, chalky and dusty. There was Asian spice, tea and broth here. One could see the wisdom of age in the ’82; this was a man, not a boy. ‘Soooo good,’ I wrote. Even though it won’t get any better, and probably is a point less ultimately, it showed so well, and I just had to give it (96).

Heavy Duty

The 1990 Leroy Richebourg that followed seemed almost infantile by comparison. This showed much younger, deeper and blacker. I supposed it was starting to show some skin by Leroy’s usual standards, but the ’82 RC was so deliciously mature, it skewed our perspective. The Richebourg’s palate was big and oaky without being obtrusive; it squared up a bit but its thickness could not be denied. There was a bit of that Leroy gas and ass, both in kiss quantities. It got better in the glass, both fruit and finish-wise (95).

We ended where it arguably all began with a pair of 1982 Bordeaux, specifically a 1982 Pichon Lalande. It was a great bottle, but tighter than I ever remembered it being. There were aromas of peanut brittle, caramel, nutter butter, green bean and a pinch of thigh cream. This was long, elegant and solid, but I definitely felt like I should have opened it up a few hours earlier. This was still my nutty buddy (95).

The Best for Last?

The 1982 Mouton Rothschild was another level. It, too, was tight, but darker and deeper as well. This was a spectacular wine that wasn’t all about the pleasure; in fact, it may more have been about the pain and rain, but it was much longer than anything we had this night. This was a lifetime wine, and while arguably all of the Burgundies gave more pleasure now, there was no question which wine would still be standing long after all of us. The debate of now versus later in the context of greatness will always be debatable, and while I got more pleasure out of the Burgundies, I still recognized that this was the wine of the night (97+).

By the end of the evening, I left cheering for Brazil in the World Cup, against the USA in the final, of course.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Hong Kong Invasion

This past week I was in New York, but I might as well have been in Hong Kong, as the three dinners on my calendar were with three of HK’s finest collectors, all in New York on separate business occasions, although there were a couple of interconnected links.

The Chairman is a name bestowed on three different individuals in three different continents as far as Vintage Tastings lore goes, but it would be safe to say that they all might defer to the one in Hong Kong for any final votes in the boardroom. A number of us were treated to a night of incredible wine and food in the private room at Bouley, as the pulse of America’s and China’s investment market met and broke bread and reds.

I think five bottles of 1995 Krug went down the hatch by the time we sat down to dinner. The 1995 is definitely getting better with age, and it is starting to thicken a bit. It was still rustic yet bready, with nice oil and vitamin flavors, flirting with outstanding (94+).

The 1997 Chave Hermitage Blanc took up the Montrachet challenge, and if there were ever a white that could knock a Montrachet down to its knees, it would be this. While some might put its personality under the ‘acquired’ or ‘geeky’ category, I find his whites fabulous and unique. It had that glue-do-voodoo kink, which hopefully anyone who has had his whites will understand. There were kinky fruits, icy flavors and diamonds sparkling on its finish. It was round and full, with mango, game and (good) bitter flavors. This was a white wine still ascending at age 17, although its fruit was starting to hit that sweet spot (95).

The 2000 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche was more than up for the challenge. This is my favorite Montrachet in terms of price-to-quality ratio. It always delivers outstanding quality without the stratospheric price tag, and this was no exception. The crowd immediately jumped in the Montrachet camp, but of course, they were bankers, so no surprise there J. Its nose oozed buttery spice, along with nice mint, cedar and cream aromas. Its palate was long, smooth and buttery, while Jennie observed, ‘overripe pineapple.’ I loved this wine (95+).

The Chairman plucked off the list a 1978 DRC Echezeaux. The bottle was a bit bruised and battered on the outside, but absolutely perfect on the inside. You could not ask for anything more out of this wine. Aromas of sous bois, menthol, autumn and dried beef all fought for our attention over its sappy, tree-lined fruit. This was a smooth, satiny and delicious wine; long, classy and classic all at once. Its flavors had a nice brothy quality to them, and the wine delivered secondary and tertiary action that carried us on wings into the next course (96) .

Riding Dirty Off the List

A pair of dueling ’90 Right Bankers were next, beginning with the 1990 Angelus. This was reportedly Hubert’s favorite vintage of all-time. It was deep, big and long with black fruits, bread and great dryness. It was quite thick and long, toeing the line between New and Old Worlds quite deftly. It didn’t please everyone in the crowd as ‘too aggressive’ and ‘anchovy’ came out, but I liked and respected the wine (95).

The 1990 Le Bon Pasteur was exotic and coconutty with a shot of whey protein in there. This was a Pomerol Power Smoothie, drinking great with rich fruit and plummy fruit flavors. Many in the room preferred it, and it was certainly in a better spot as far as drinking right now (94).

90 Power

The classic showdown of Palmer versus Margaux never gets old, especially when they are both from 1983. The 1983 Margaux had a deep, invigorating nose with nice black and cassis fruit. There was some grass and honey along with deeper fruit in this classic Margaux. It was both masculine and feminine at the same time (95).

The 1983 Palmer was neck and neck with the Margaux, although I didn’t get a chance to write a complete note. The first ‘Ganbei’ of the night struck. For those of you who don’t know what it means, it means ‘bottoms up.’ Yes, it seems a bit inappropriate when it comes to fine and rare wine, but the power of the Ganbei is greater. If in China, and someone says it, I highly recommend that you drink up. When with the Chairman, it is mandatory (95).

Twin Billing

Two mighty magnums signaled the end of the Bordeaux part of our evening, beginning with a 1961 Lafite Rothschild. This wine has never lived up to the reputation of the vintage, but it is still an excellent wine. It had a lighter nose than one would expect from a ’61 First Growth, but there were pleasing aromas of toffee, pencil, cedar and caramel. Its palate was smooth, light and tender with a nice core of sweetness leaning on the toffee side. I believe ‘jolly good’ might be an apt descriptor (93M).

The 1959 Margaux had a richer nose that was blacker. There was a touch of gas to this also smooth wine. A hint of apricot tiptoed out of this wine’s catacombs to show exotic fruit. OTR commented, ‘the Lafite would just lay there, while this one would put me in positions’ he never knew he was capable of, or something to that effect. Point, set, match, Margaux (94M).

Out of Magnum No Less

Actually, it wasn’t the end of our Bordeaux program, as I had to slip in a blind wine of my own. Such generosity must be reciprocated. I told everyone if anyone guessed what the wine was, dinner was on me. After a few near-misses, The Chairman was honing in, so I decided to reveal it was a 1979 Petrus. This was a gorgeous bottle with an open nose full of chocolate. There was ‘a big, bold finish’ per someone or another, and its foreground was satiny, round and smooth. Mints, olives and other usual Petrus friends joined this party (95).

We had a couple more Ganbeis revisiting some of the Bordeaux, then a couple of Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelles. The 1989 was a dirty birdie (92) and the 1990 was jammy, chewy, friendly and zippy, one of the better bottles of this that I have had recently (94).

Oh yeah, we had some 2001 Yquem. Although I rarely drink sweet wine, that one rocks (98+).

I’m not sure how I managed to have lunch the next day, but the fact that it was at Marea helped. The Artist Formerly Known as Dr. Vino plucked a delicious 2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey off the list, and I felt better again. I can’t remember which wine it was, but they are all good from this up-and-coming Burgundy star.

For those of you that really pay attention to what I write, you may remember a group from Hong Kong called the AlcoholiHKs. Well, one of their Chief Drinking Officers was in town, so we two CDOs got together at Sparks, since he wanted a great American steakhouse. Since I was out Monday with the Hedonist, Tuesday with The Chairman and Wednesday again, dinner was at 5:30. If I wasn’t home by 7:30, I think I might have gotten a homemade vasectomy. So we shared a single bottle, a reasonable 2004 Montrose off the list. It was big and brawny, a bit tight at first, showing more oak than anything else. With some air, and some steak, it settled down into another drinkable ’04, solid but not earthshaking (90).

A couple of days later, I was lucky enough to catch The Zen Master while he transcended through New York City. The Zen Master is also a wine master, so there was only one place to take him: Charlie Bird. We warmed up with a 2007 Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre. It was quintessential Chablis; the ultimate starter wine. It drank like silk embroidered with exotic sea shells and minerals. There was smack to its lemony, tangy palate, and enough length to get into the serious class (94).

The Zen Master selected a 2011 Roulot Meursault Clos des Boucheres, a personal favorite of Sir Robert Bohr’s. This showed 2011 is in the same class as 2007 for whites, a sentiment recently echoed when I was in Burgundy, although everyone seemed to give the nod to ’07 overall. I know Chablis has its own personality relative to the rest of white Burgundy’s vintage charts, but work with me, I’m writing over here. The Meursault was fat yet cut, plump with its ample cleavage aka fruit. It had that signature Roulot flavor, and its smoky sex appeal hit my sweet spot. It was bigger and louder than the Chablis, obviously, and it fit perfectly in the progression of the evening (94).

Group Shot

The Zen Master also picked an intriguing bottle of 1961 Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva. I believe this was before they made single-vineyard wines, and only one Riserva, but I am not sure 100%. This bottle was on the mature side but still drinkable and enjoyable. It had that sweet, open, leathery edge with lots of brown sugar. The tar and caramel came out more and more, and this gritty wine left all of us lip smacking. It did feel like it lacked that usual, extra Giacosa dimension, for whatever it’s worth (92).

Old School

1983 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline. When it comes to the La la’s, there is no doubt that the La Mouline rules the roost, although any given Sunday, La Turque or La Landonne can of course steal the show. I doubt anything could show much better than this ’83. It was a great bottle, showing everything that La Mouline wants to give. Its nose was deep and dark, full of purple, violet and black fruit. Bacon, pepper and that Rhone hot rock spice simmered throughout the wine. This was big, rich yet deft, an agile wine on a heavyweight level (97).

There was one more wine on our menu, although we probably could have done without. Yeah right, it was a 2002 Rousseau Chambertin. 2002 has always been a darling vintage of mine, but it is starting to join my favorite camp. Dare I say greater than 1999 or 2005 as far as Red Burgundy vintages go? If we are talking pleasure right now, it is tough to argue against the 2002, and it still has a long way to go. There was flesh to the usual musk, wet bamboo and cherry fruit. It was open and singing, singular in its powerful terroir, and long with its acidity. This was a great wine, a definitive knockout blow (96).

Three of my favorite restaurants in NYC (Bouley, Marea and Charlie Bird) along with three of my favorite friends in HK made for three of my favorite things last week, all here in New York City. When it comes to fine wine, invasions are welcome.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

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