Vintage Tastings

By John Kapon

Experience the finest and rarest wines in the world through the eyes and palate of Acker Chairman and globally renowned master taster, John Kapon (our “JK”). “Vintage Tastings” is a written journal chronicling the incredible bottles opened at some of the most exclusive tastings, wine dinners, and events all over the globe. These entries represent JK’s commitment to capturing and sharing the ephemeral nature and ultimate privilege of tasting the world’s rarest wines. Although ratings are based on a 100-point scale, JK believes there is no such thing as a 100-point wine. Point scores assigned to each wine are his own personal attempt to quantify the quality of each experience.

Summer Nights – 2016

There is nothing quite like a summer night full of great food, wine and friends, and there was one night this summer that stood out above all the rest, save The Tasting of the Year, of course. The ingredients were all set thanks to The Mogul, Gentleman Jim, Lady Agah, Alexander The Great and the one and only Big Boy, and we gathered on The Mogul’s very big boat for a doubleheader of sun and fun. Despite two minor jet ski accidents, everyone ended up OK and at the dinner table for a spectacular meal, although one of the guests didn’t remember a thing about dinner. We like to keep things anonymous here at Acker Merrall 😉

Now That’s a Boat

I didn’t keep track of the wines before dinner, although I remember a great bottle of Comtes de Champagne Rose, a couple of top Chablis from Raveneau and Dauvissat, and a slightly skunky, very old and expensive Salon. The cocktail round started with an outstanding magnum of Salon, however, a 1988 Salon to be exact. This was a Big Brother, full and rich, with a positive oaky edge. ‘Big and Biggie’ were in my notes, and its finish cascaded like Niagra Falls (96M).

Nice Lineup

The next Champagne was also outstanding, this one being a 1973 Krug Dinner had begun. The Krug had a great, fresh nose full of apples and crackers, with a touch of anisette. Its palate was long, zippy and tasty, with some ‘old school Creamsicle’ per Dapper Dave. The Krug had plenty of stuffing to it as well, but it had more balance, too (96).

There was a 1973 Dom Perignon Rose which was a dirty birdie of sorts, ‘grungy’ according to one of the guests. It was an accurate comment; I just never have loved old DP Roses (92).

A pair of Montrachets covered the white flight well, beginning with a 2008 Lafon Montrachet. This was a toasty, buttery, popcorny rich wine, flirting with kettle corn. It was sweet, delicious and rich, falling somewhere between rock star and porn star. Not sure that’s a place where I want to be lol, but the Lafon surely rocked and rolled right on over. Gentleman Jim found it ‘bigger’ and Dapper Dave ‘nutty’ (96).

Red Light District

The 2004 DRC Montrachet surprisingly felt a step behind, more surprisingly so because I recently had an all-star bottle of this. This bottle was more milky and yeasty with a bit of fresh pencil and a kiss of eucalyptus. It was creamy with green apple and corny goodness. It was buttery and sweet, yet oaky and austere. Maybe it needed a little more time, but time was not something we wanted to give with the red wines that were on tap (95).

The pairs continued with 1961 Bordeaux, St. Emilion versus Pomerol. The 1961 Ausone had loads of licorice and red fruits in its nose, along with dates, tree bark and a peel quality of some sorts. Dapper Dave found it ‘intense,’ and its palate was rich and coconutty with a ‘cool smoky thing’ happening. This was creamy city, and someone noted ‘coffee’ (94).

Righteous Bankers

Well, well, well, 1961 Petrus again, my second bottle in three months. That officially constitutes a good year, and while this was ‘freakishly great’ per the Dapper one, it didn’t quite hit the highest of high notes for me like the bottle I had with The Rev a couple months prior. Don’t get me wrong, this was still best wines of my life category, ie 97 points and up. This bottle had that rich and creamy Pomerol nose with plums, honey and sex all over the house. It was delicious and rich, chewy and deep purple, with traces of game and lots of exotic things happening that only happen abroad (97).

The flights were getting larger, and the night was getting longer in a great way. Dujac took center stage next, beginning with a 1985 Dujac Clos de la Roche This was gamy and kinky with rich, teabag aromas. It was delicious and creamy with a long, slippery personality. Foresty fruit was dabbed in honey in this tasty wine (95).

Drink Dujac

The 1978 Dujac Clos St. Denis was rich and beefy, ‘dirty’ per The Mogul. There’s a joke to be made in there somewhere, but the CSD got better and better as the dirt blew off, and the fruit blew in. There’s a joke to be made there, too, lol. 1978 is probably the greatest expression of Dujac ever, and after some air, the CSD showed why (96).

The 1969 Dujac Bonnes Mares was a rare bird, and its first commercial vintage, I believe. It had a rich and gamy nose, and Big Boy found it ‘crazy’ in a good way. There was lots of autumn howling in the glass, and its finish was neverending. This was a creamy and satiny wine, although it got more gamy with time. It was a ‘drink up’ kind of bottle (96).

The next and final flight was all 1971, and all DRC.
1. 1971 DRC Grands Echezeaux (97)
2. 1971 DRC Richebourg (96)
3. 1971 DRC La Tache (96)
4. 1971 DRC Romanee Conti (98+)

Four Horsemen

The Grands Echezeaux almost stole the show, were it not for the biggest and baddest of them all, the RC, or ‘RC RC’ as many like to call it. The GE had everything you could ask in a ’71 DRC wine: beef, blood, menthol, citrus, red fruits, game and autumn leaves. There was a great expression of fruit perfectly balanced by its long finish, which was singing with acidity. The GE outperformed the next two wines/bottles on this rare occasion, but the RC showed why it is the most expensive wine in the world. It should almost be forbidden to open a bottle of this wine before it reaches age 30, as the older ones are where you can really taste the difference. On this amazing night, we were able to taste four differences for this legendary vintage of DRC, which may be drinking better for this Domaine than any other older, mature vintage as far as consistency and reliability.

We had a few more bottles of Champagne as we danced away the rest of the night on the deck. Alas, there are no more summer nights, but there is still plenty of drinking left to do this Fall. Start your engines!

Summer Nights

In Vino Veritas,
JK

The 2016 Vintage Tasting Recap

Enjoy all of 2016’s Vintage Tastings and share in the unforgettable memories of the world’s greatest wines, tasted with the worlds greatest palates and collectors.

In case you missed one, here’s your opportunity to enjoy a recap of some of the most amazing wine experiences, as witnessed and described by our very own, John Kapon.

Open a bottle, sip, read and enjoy!

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Tasting Of The Year The Grand Finale

Since this article has taken me well over a month to write, let’s just get to it. The Grand Finale, indeed.

We left off with some 1969 Leroy Musigny, and picked it up with a 2011 DRC Montrachet. I love 2011 whites right now, and the DRC didn’t disappoint. It was sweet and tasty, more delicate than I expected but admittedly an adolescent. It was still abundant in its usual, sweet fashion, but it needed more time than most 2011s (95+).

A magnum of 1971 Dom Perignon Rose continued our palate cleanse with its ‘strawberry sundae with caramel and apples,’ per Hollywood Jef. It had a curds n’ whey palate and was super zippy, but a bit sharp as well. I fluctuated between 95 and 96 points, but the old Roses always get a little dirty for me, keeping it at (95M).

Palate Cleanser

A 1975 Dom Perignon Oenotheque was disgorged in 2007. It was wafery and spiny, more Oenotheque than 1975 (94).

And now it was time for our main event, eight great wines from 1961, and from Bordeaux. It was only right, since our host, The Rev, was born in 1961. 1961 Mouton Rothschild was first, and it was served a bit cold, to be honest. There was still nice mint, that old, signature mint that develops in great Moutons, just like a great, old Heitz Martha’s Vineyard. It’s palate wasn’t perfect, though, and this bottle was a bit mature once it warmed up (93A).

The 1961 La Mission Haut Brion that followed was spectacular. There was typical gravel and chocolate in the nose, with aromas of stones, smoke and black fruits. This was a rich and decadent wine, sexy juice that was absolutely delicious. It doesn’t get much better (98).

1961 Decadence

The 1961 Haut Brion put up a good fight. It, too, was delicious, super nutty with sweet peanut butter and honeyed flavors. This was also rich and decadent, very long and stylish, keeping pace with the La Miss (97).

A 1961 Palmer was good, but weird. The Punisher found it ‘vitaminy,’ and I wasn’t sure about the bottle (93?)

There was no Lafite or Margaux tonight, but there were four extraordinary bottles of Pomerol. The 1961 Latour a Pomerol was a honey bunny of a wine with a super sexy nose. This had the 1960s all over it in Hugh Hefner fashion. There was a pudding and gingerbread edge to this kinky wine. Smooth, creamy and tasty, this was yet another decadent ’61, but even more so. It had that almost Zinfandel-like decadence, typical for this wine and vintage, similar to 1982 Lafleur for some. There were maple syrup flavors to its finish (97).

Pomerol Power

The 1961 Petrus, as usual, was the top of the pyramid. This was a classic wine in every which way. This was a lot of people’s wine of the night, including mine. While my notes were waning, I did find it ‘rock solid with enough fine chalk and stone for a quarry,’ and its fruit was ‘absolutely perfect.’ It also got a ‘longggggggg’ (99pts).

1961 Trotanoy held its own quite well with its usual chocolate city party. It was like George Clinton performing in a glass of wine. ‘Great,’ ‘tasty’ and ‘solid’ were semi-legible, and other notes weren’t (96).

There was still one more Pomerol power display, the 1961 L’Evangile. Someone found ‘something extra’ here, and I found the usual chocolate, but this bottle was a little dirtier than previous memories. It had a little wheaty funk to it, but it was still an outstanding wine (95).

The Punisher hailed the last flight as his favorite flight of the weekend, and The Bulldog gave it two woofs. And there were two wines to go, a couple of 1978 Rhones, beginning with a 1978 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape. The Punisher thought this was a great bottle, and Andy was ‘smelling marijuana.’ There were lots of kirsch and strawberry aromas and flavors, along with hot stone and provencal herbs. This was a tasty left turn to exit the building (96).

Left Exit

But the 1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle was even better. I have had mixed experiences with this wine, but this bottle was superb. This wine was black as night with bacon, chocolate and that Rhone hot rocks action. It kept getting bigger, longer and better, and its acidity crackled. I finally felt the ’61 comparison thanks to this bottle (98).

What can I possibly say, other than eternal thanks to The Rev for hosting us all, and sharing in the biggest way imaginable. Sharing is what makes wine great, to experience it with friends, to taste, to explore, to learn again. It is continuing education in one of its greatest expressions, and The Rev is as good a teacher as any. Thank you, brother.

Oh What a Weekend

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Tasting Of The Year 2016 – Part III

It was Saturday night, a seemingly improbable Day Two of this Bacchanalian extravaganza. The Rev was one day older, and we were all very much wiser thanks to the incredible array of once in a lifetime wines experienced the night before. There was not much more to do except do it again.

Ambience

We began night two with an incredible magnum of 1961 Dom Perignon Wedding Cuvee. This was labeled in celebration of Charles and Diana’s wedding way back when, and the Royal Family couldn’t have picked a better bubbly to celebrate absolutely any occasion, although recent press about Charles might have them reaching for something stiffer. The ’61 was practically as good as it gets. It was grainy, zippy, strong yet mature with loads of white fruit and sugar flavors. Delicious and balanced, this ’61 was traveling “peak” hours, but it isn’t getting off the train anytime soon (98M).

Specially Shipped to Honor

There were four Champagnes to flight number one, and they were all extra special. The 1929 Louis Roederer (regular) proved once again how good these old cuvees can be. They are some of the best kept secrets in fine and rare Champagne. This ’29 was a spectacular bottle. ‘Beautiful, look at that color’ came from the crowd. It was buttery but in a lightly buttered way. This was a smooth, long and ‘delicate’ Champagne that was also hailed as great and ‘exceptional.’ It was flat out great and such a thrill to have a perfectly kept 87 year old bottle of Champagne (97).

Three is the Magic Number

We followed with another Roederer, this time a 1962 Roederer Cristal, which was quite buttery, a bit like a DRC Montrachet. There were lots of caramel and rich maple flavors to this oakier Champagne. It got a little musty with some time in the glass, and while still outstanding, I am not sure anything will reach the heights of that one magical bottle I had with Bad Boy at Spago many years back. It is all about the bottles when it comes to old wine (95).

The 1962 Krug Private Cuvee was bottled for Great Britain, and it had that apple nose with the juice. Its finish was drier and brought out more sour apple in a good way, and its acidity and finish were huge. It got better and better, as if it was powering up with more oxygen, and it also had ‘more bubbles’ per Mr. Galloni (96+).

The 1990 Jacques Selosse that followed exceeded everything, and maybe its youth helped. When it comes to all the assorted multi-vintage cuvees that Selosse makes, there can be varying degrees of quality; I sure wish he would make more vintage Champagne as they never cease to amaze me. This was a spiny and super fresh Champagne, with hot sugar cube action and a long and flavorful personality. This was a superb Champagne with spectacular length and cream and as good a bottle of Champagne as I can remember…ever (99).

Legend

Four continued to be the number of choice, and four white Burgundies were up next, beginning with a (DQ) 1993 DRC Montrachet. It was a bummer, but two more were on tap, including the 1996 DRC Montrachet. While a bit wooly in the nose, its palate was out of control great. There was so much dimension to it, I felt like I left the third one behind. This was a thick and staggering Chardonnay (98).

The Full Monty

The 2004 DRC Montrachet was more oaky and floral but no slouch by comparison. There was good weight to its full body and a rich and buttery overall feel. Todd found it ‘magical,’ and Antonio and JP were also loving it. It got thicker and more integrated as time went on, much better than the bottle I had recently (which was two months later), for those of you keeping score (97).

We had to have a little Cochy Cochy Koo, of course, and what better than the 1996 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne. We actually had two bottles, as the first one was a bit mature. The second was ‘rockin’ per The Rev and a perfect bottle. This was kinky stuff, but in that ‘oh it’s ok, it’s legal because it’s regal’ way lol. This was a stylish, spectacular white that was liquid gold and diamonds rolled up into one (98).

Shine Bright Like a Diamond

Three wines from 1947 led the procession of red Burgs, beginning with a 1947 Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes. It had a deep nose with lots of citrus smack, barn, cracker and autumnal brown sugar. Its palate was a bit thinner than I expected with more citrus than anything else. The Rev summed it up succinctly as ‘not exceptional,’ although other bottles over the years have been for me (93).

The Moose is Loose

The 1947 Leroy Musigny was super sweet with thick orange fruit. This was a great Moose, rich and classy with added peel to the orange, and added body and length to the Vogue. Solid stuff (95).

I believe the 1947 Pierre Ponnelle Musigny was made by Georges Roumier, but someone can get me a fact check on Aisle 9. It was the best wine of the flight, so chances are it was. There was a lot of fruit to this smoky wine, and its alcohol and acidity were sizzling. Firm, long and full of citrus with the black to back it up, the Ponnelle loved, lingered and loved some more (96).

It was 1959’s turn, and we started with a whimper thanks to an affected 1959 Faiveley Musigny (DQ).Musigny was the theme on this night, and a Bouchard Pere et Fils Musigny helped get us back on track. This was a solid wine, earthy and rich with sweet brown sugar flavors and a leathery finish. It was best upon first sip, and oxygen took it down a point (94).

The 1959 Prieur Musigny didn’t excite much, getting ‘very dry’ from Mr. Vinous and ‘still tannic’ from another. It was gamy and creamy, a bit hard and while still very good, very good wasn’t what this crowd was looking for (91).

It was on to 1969, and back Pierre with a 1969 Ponnelle Musigny. Its nose was full of cobwebs and super sweet. Its finish was quite metallic with lots of aluminum (91).

Just when the Musignys were putting us to sleep, out came the 1969 Roumier Musigny. Hot damn. There were loads of vitamins in its nose, along with rich and sexy cherry fruit that tasted like it was just popped. Hollywood Jef hailed it as ‘crazy wine,’ and it definitely felt like it was transcending many categories. I felt a tug at my leg, and it was The Bulldog humping it. It was that good lol. Even Antonio hailed it as ‘one of the best wines this weekend.’ Nuff said (98).

In a League of Its Own

There was a 1969 Leroy Musigny served thereafter, but I didn’t quite put any notes together. Antonio found it ‘fantastic’ and another ‘very pretty.’

Some palate cleansers were on tap, so this was a good time to take a break. Older Burgundies can be spectacular, but it is harder to hit as many consistent heights as Bordeaux when you get in that 50 year plus category. Good thing we had nine ’61 Bordeaux still to go amongst others. Part IV is coming.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

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“Under the law of the U.S., intoxicating liquor must not be sold or supplied to a minor (at least age 21) in the course of business.”

根據香港法律,不得在業務過程中,向未成年人售賣或供應令人醺醉的酒類。
Under the law of Hong Kong, intoxicating liquor must not be sold or supplied to a minor in the course of business.

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