Vintage Tastings

By John Kapon

Experience the finest and rarest wines in the world through the eyes and palate of Acker Chairman and globally renowned master taster, John Kapon (our “JK”). “Vintage Tastings” is a written journal chronicling the incredible bottles opened at some of the most exclusive tastings, wine dinners, and events all over the globe. These entries represent JK’s commitment to capturing and sharing the ephemeral nature and ultimate privilege of tasting the world’s rarest wines. Although ratings are based on a 100-point scale, JK believes there is no such thing as a 100-point wine. Point scores assigned to each wine are his own personal attempt to quantify the quality of each experience.

Obrigado, Maestro

While Greater China and the USA are the two lions sharing most of the free market’s fine and rare wine in the world today, there is a third lion, perhaps more of a cub when it comes to its wine, but one that already knows how to roar. I try to go to Brazil at least twice a year, as the passion, energy and culture of the Brazilian people is a true joy to share. Of course, it is more joyous when there are bottles of wine on the table, and the most joyous when they are the world’s finest and rarest.

One of my first and dearest friends in Brazil is known as The Ringmaster. The name is self-explanatory, and The Ringmaster once again planted a seed for a tremendous day to grow into one of the most memorable meals I have had all year. The Maestro was our host, a man who loves wine as much as any that I have ever met, and his spectacular apartment in Sao Paulo was the setting for a lunch that went well into the evening.

Each flight was served ‘single blind,’ so we knew the wines, but we did not know the order, and we started with some Champagne, Krug, of course. The first bubbly was my favorite; its nose was tight with dried qualities and a more rusty personality. The Traveling Man admired its ‘awesome acidity,’ and its palate was delicious, with a delectable citric verve to its super fresh style. There were exotic, green fruit flavors with twists of lime here, and this was the most complicated bubbly at the moment. We were all stunned to discover that this was the ‘regular’ 1990 Krug, given that the other two in this flight were Clos du Mesnils. I thought this was the 1988 Mesnil (97).

Major Upset

The second Krug in this flight I guessed correctly, with it being a 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil. There was immediately more oak noticeable in the nose. It had the most power of the flight, but it was a bit dirty and clumsy by comparison to the first Champagne. It was rich and round with soda and cracker qualities, and the vanilla came in as the oak morphed a bit in the glass (95+).

The 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil was delicious; it was the most ready to go and approachable, which is why I thought it was the 1990 regular. It was quite tasty with citrus and toffee twists, along with pleasant spices and a nice mahogany or interior wood quality. However, it was lighter than the first two! The ’88 has long been one of my favorite Krug vintages, so I was surprised with its more demure personality. It got more limey in the glass (95).

The next flight was all Montrachet and all 1999, featuring DRC, Ramonet and Lafon. Yum. The first Montrachet had a darker color, or a deeper gold I should say. Its buttery nose had lots of spice, great lemon, with a little chiffon to it. Its palate was sweet, rich and round, and its finish felt completely integrated at first. There was a kiss of botrytis for sure. A little food brought out its deep and unfurling acidity, and it kept gaining and gaining in the glass. Ultimately, this 1999 DRC Montrachet was the biggest and baddest in the flight (98).

1999 Montrachets

At first, I preferred the 1999 Ramonet Montrachet, whose mintier nose was a giveaway for Ramonet. It felt a lot more wound up and intense than the DRC in the beginning. There was great spice and super spine here, a bit in the S&M direction, as the wine whipped my palate into submission (97).

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The 1999 Lafon Montrachet was unfortunately oxidized (DQ), so The Maestro quickly disappeared to his cellar for a mystery white to replace it. He noted ‘sesame’ in the nose, while The Ringmaster found ‘peach marmalade.’ It was leaner than the 1999 and reminded me of the 2000 vintage a bit, but in a much younger way. My guesses were all over the place, and I was thinking older than it really was. The Traveling Man guessed 2009, and he was a lot closer to the actual vintage of this 2012 DRC Montrachet. It was still baby juice compared to the 1999s; I recommend waiting at least ten years before cracking those DRC Montys (94+).

It was on to the red Burgundies, and a classic DRC vs. Leroy showdown. It was easy to see the difference right away, and I correctly guessed the first one being the 1988 DRC Richebourg. There were bright cherry and tomato aromas, along with that good dirt and lots of earth to go with it. There was also some wet fur, in a good way. This was a rich and flavorful red, with chalky flavors and red citrus twits in a limestone way. This was an impressive ’88, and the best ’88 DRC I could remember having. I guess they are finally hitting their stride! There was great tanning expression on its brighter finish (96).

Lucky ‘88s

The 1988 Leroy Richebourg was much richer with a cherry cough syrup thing happening, not in a negative way. It was rich and almost syrupy, oily and long with loads of black fruits on its finish. At first, I found the two Richebourgs qualitatively equal despite being stylistically different (both around 95 points), but after some time in the glass, I agreed with Dr. Feelgood that the DRC was the better wine (94).

We did 1990 and 1978 in the Rhone, Civil War Style, beginning with the South. The first wine was a quintessential Chateauneuf du Pape, with layers of sweet strawberry fruit, hot stones, garrigue, bacon and violets. Its palate was rich, creamy, long and smooth. The 1990 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape charmed me at first with its sweetness and openness, but ultimately it would succumb to the beast that followed (95).

Civil War

Interestingly, the second C du P was a bit yeasty and weird at first. There was this dirty pool water thing as the Rayas giggled its way into my heart. The 1990 Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins was clearly stronger and blacker; it flexed a lot more muscle and sprinkled a lot of pepper around the nose. Its dirty qualities transformed into oats and cereal, along with a lot of farm goodness. In the end, the Celestins was deeper, longer and more complex (96+).

The North was, as you might guess, a Chave La Chapelle throwdown. The 1978 Chave Hermitage had a sweet and perfumed nose with light pepper, gorgeous violet and whiffs of bacon, all in the right places. This was very classic, very rich and very round (96).

As good as the Chave was, the 1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle was one of the wines of the day so far. There was so much animal here with loads of menthol. The was a gamey and meaty wine that was absolutely delicious and oh so good. ‘GREAT’ summed it up (98).

We went to Bordeaux next, and a duo of 1959s. The first had deep fruit that was dark and creamy, with touches of forest, wheat, oat and chocolate. It was blacker than the second, gritty and wheaty with darker hues of fruit. This was a good but not great bottle of 1959 Latour. It’s nice when good can still be 95 points (95).

1959 Greatness

The 1959 Mouton Rothschild was stronger and longer, clearly the better bottle. Its cassis, chocolate and mint were divinely proportioned and present. This was a red wine that was actually a cheese killer ”“ usually cheese kills red wines but not this time. This was a classic claret, with that unique Mouton style, in a perfect place (98).

A ‘serious’ blind wine was served next, and the Romanee Conti guesses came quickly. There was this autumnal oil to the nose, along with sweet brown sugar, menthol, gingerbread and more spice. This was a ‘crazy time’ wine. More sweet brown sugar and oats played together nicely on the palate, and this lip smacking red had a citrus spank to its finish that hurt so good. It wasn’t from the 1990s, not 1980s, had to be 1978 RC, I mused. It was a stunningly good bottle of 1988 DRC Romanee Conti. Wow. I was impressed, not only how good, but how much more ready it was than I thought an ’88 would be. I need to investigate a few more from this vintage in early 2018 (98+)!

There were a few epic sweet wines served at the end of this epic lunch, a 1921 Yquem (99), a 1863 Taylor Single Harvest Port (98) and a 1900 Krohn Reserva Port (97), I think. Game, set, match. I was no match for The Maestro, but I am definitely game to try again! I will be seeing him very soon, as a matter of fact”¦

Legend

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Summer Nights – 2017

As Autumn seizes the season with its crisp, cool hands, I can’t help but reminisce about summer nights. There aren’t many evenings better spent than ones with The Mogul, and I was fortunate enough to have two significant soirees out East, from a New Yorker’s perspective. While The Mogul is one of the biggest American lovers of Bordeaux that I know, we kept the food groups these rounds mainly to Champagne and Burgundy. Nothing wrong with that.

There was definitely a pre-game before our first evening, but those notes are temporarily misplaced. Thankfully, I had a picture from an Instagram post (follow john.kapon if you want to see more of what I drink), so now I remember having 2001 Raveneau Clos, 2001 Ramonet Batard, 2000 Rousseau Chambertin(s) and 2002 DRC RSV. See Exhibit A. I can’t give you any details at this point, but I can tell you they were all pretty freaking good : )

Exhibit A

Since I still have 40+ notes for these couple of special occasions, I will just start rolling with the 2002 Krug, the first wine at dinner. The newly released Krug is another exceptional release from Champagne’s top dog. It was a delicious, long and zippy bubbly that exuded the word ‘great.’ There were nice flavors of yellow fruits, corn and bitter, along with a little cream and a touch of scotch. While young, it was still fun to hang out with (96).

The 2002 Krug Clos du Mesnil was more shut down, on the leaner and shier side. It was served first on purpose, although I didn’t taste it first, assuming it was served first in error. While longer and more cerebral, the ‘regular’ Krug vintage stole the show…for now. The Falcon noted ‘brioche’ while The Mogul found it more ‘bagel dough.’ Nicole noted how a ‘pinch of heat gave this vintage incredible fruit.’ 1982 was a vintage that came up in a comparable conversation, and while intuition would say this was the best wine on the table, it wasn’t quite yet (95+).

We had a couple of MV Krugs next, #158 was a blend back to 1988 held for over twenty years! It was a bit grassy and lighter (93),and I much preferred the #164, which was mostly 2008 (95)You can never go wrong with an MV Krug, it is one of the best possible ways to start a dinner party, or a date, or Sunday breakfast alone lol.

A trio of great white Burgundy producers and vintages followed, led by a 2012 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres. Coche is on absolute fire right now; its prices have practically doubled over the past year or so. This MP was rich and long, displaying signature acacia and honeysuckle aromas. ‘So rich’ appeared in my notes again, but it was a touch oaky at first. With air, though, that resolved itself. This was still heavier than I expected, and Mr. Pink admired its ‘laser focus.’ I can’t remember who Mr. Pink is, but he has a name lol (96+).

Chardonnay Straight

The 2011 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche had more approachability, to be expected for a 2011, one of my favorite young white Burg vintages to drink young. This was a buttery and forward wine with much more open flavors, but it didn’t have the staying power in the glass as the other two (94).

I didn’t have much to say about the 2010 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet other than ‘long, clean, racy and classic.’ That about sums it up (95).

Speaking of Leflaive, a trio of them followed, beginning with the 1992 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet. Someone noted it as ‘Sauternes-like,’ and that comment was dead on. The sweetness of the vintage manifested itself into a Sauv Blanc wanna be, but of the highest order. There was amazing apricot and stone fruits here, and this was a rich and hedonistic wine that was kinky and open with a ‘woody finish.’ The Mogul threw some controversial ‘dirty sock’ in the Leflaive hamper. His laundry always gets done on time (95).

Leflaive Likes

A 1989 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Pucelles was unfortunately corked (DQ).

The 1983 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet was a spectacular bottle. I have always liked this vintage of Burgundy for both red and whites, and the top wines remain delightful. The Blue Jay found its mid-palate ‘restrained’ and more ‘Batard.’ I just found it delicious. I was impressed with its atypical acid and length for the vintage. This was a full, rich and regal Chardonnay (96+).

The reds began with a flight of Roumiers and the 2006 Roumier Bonnes Mares. There was a chalkiness to its nose, and some gas in the mask, so to speak. Someone noted about Roumier, ‘the darkest fruit of the Cote de Nuits.’ Slate, hot rubber and acid were prominent in this dungeonesque red. Hamburger called 2006 ‘an underrated vintage’ (94).

Regal Roumiers

A 2001 Roumier Bonnes Mares was similar to the 2006 with its brooding, dark personality, in contrast to the vintage. The Mogul saw it too, comparing both the ’01 and the ’06 to an unopened peacock plume. He would know; he has a few on his property. The 2001 was serious, but restrained, and there was a touch of dirty diaper there that needed time to blow off (94).

The 1996 Roumier Bonnes Mares was far and away the best of the flight, but it clearly needed lots more time. I think Roumier is almost Bordelais in that it needs three decades to shed its skin on the top level. This was a classic ’96 with its bristling acid zipping, zigging and zagging. This was both classy and gorgeous which is not always an easy combination to come by lol. The whips and chains of the ’96 vintage were on full display like…like…let’s just say that when 1996s are on, they are fantastic (96+).

Three 1993s followed, two if by Dujac, one if by Leroy. The 1993 Dujac Bonnes Mares was super serious. The Blue Jay said something serious, but my handwriting was starting to let me down. Possible comments include, ‘deer hunt, derelict or doorknob.’ If you know the Blue Jay, they all make sense lol. This wine was deep and long with lots of forest floor, purple fruits and cream. It was sweet as in a good spot and luxuriously good. In fact, it was the best wine so far. Elegance and class mingled with chunky and cherry. The Falcon found ‘rhubarb and mint’ in this fantastic Pinot (97).

Fraternal Twins

Surprisingly, the 1993 Dujac Clos de la Roche was decidedly different, very furry and dirty, with some diaper and ‘coffee grinds’ per The Mogul. There were some black fruits here but a tootsie pop thing that simplified its situation. ‘Dirty South’ summed up this possibly affected bottle (91?).

The 1993 Leroy Vosne Romanee Beaux Monts was rich, deep, dark and heavy. It was decidedly a different animal than the other Burgs, and it also had more animal along with Asian and allspice. This was a long and brooding wine, classic Leroy Domaine style (96).

There were three to go, and what better place to finish than in the vineyard of La Tache. Well, the 1969 DRC La Tache was a skunked bottle (DQ),but the 1989 DRC La Tache was not. My notes were waning at this point, but I gathered enough momentum to observe purple and black fruits, with excellent acid and a zippy personality. This was definitely in outstanding territory (95).The legend of all legends, the 1999 DRC La Tache, delivered another near perfect performance. ‘Amazing,’ was all that needed to be said. This is one of the greatest Burgundies ever made (99).

Thunderstruck

About a month later, we did it all over again, but this time I didn’t lose my ‘pre-game’ notes. And the Vintage Tastings Alumni turnout was strong, led by Lady Agah and Gentleman Jim, Wild Bill, Jennie P and the one and only, Big Boy. Lights, camera, action.

The afternoon started on the boat, with a magnum of 1988 Dom Perignon. This has never been considered a great DP, and one could taste why. It was a bit watery and yeasty, simple and one dimensional. Someone found it like ‘a dirty puddle.’ Tough crowd, tough crowd. Big Boy quickly started pontificating (and I say that in the most loving way) how ‘only the ’49, ’55 and ’61 are great DPs.’ The ’88 was level headed, but I could not see it ever improving, or really wanting to pop one again compared to other years around it (90M).

1988 Magnums

The 1988 Louis Roderer Cristal magnum was much better. This was quite full-bodied, with super spritz and a long, zippy finish. It had signature flavors of butterscotch and a sweet citrus thing happening. There was nice length and balance to this tasty Champagne (95M).

The 1988 Krug magnum was clearly the biggest and baddest of them all, but the Cristal was giving it all it could handle in the ‘drink now’ category. With a little bit of cheese, the Krug took off, really coming into its own for the ‘Best of Class’ in 1988 (97M).

A 1976 Salon quickly got everyone’s attention. Wild Bill was admiring its ‘sophistication,’ although it was a bit shy on the spectrum of flavors. There were white ice qualities, almost diamond-like impressions could there be an aroma and flavor as described as such. Big Boy observed, ‘salt,’ that it was ‘too young’ and that ‘other bottles have been six stars.’ He would know (94+M).

A bottle of 1979 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose got us out of magnum territory in decent fashion. It was lacking some bubbles but not lacking in acid. ‘Orange peel,’ rust and dried strawberry co-mingled in this round and solid Champagne. This bottle seemed autumnal, which could have been the wine, or the bottle, but it didn’t strike me as off (93).

I had brought along a rare bottle of 1966 Lafon Meursault Charmes from Wolfgang’s collection that I was dying to try. The fill was a touch lower, but I had a hunch it would be good. It was a solid bottle despite the handicap – that ol’ Grunewald magic! It had a nutty and minty nose, with some animal fur and unsalted butter edges. It was a yellow siren of a wine, smooth and round, a touch gamey but great, and a thrill to try. Of course, Big Boy had to shit all over it lol. You talkin’ to me??? (94)

A 1992 Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre was matchstick city. Lady Agah found it ‘ashy’ and full of ‘sage.’ There were lots of oyster shells and some exotic lime to this long and creamy Chablis. Limestone joined the party thrown by this smooth and satiny white (94).

The Mogul threw in a bottle of ‘boat wine,’ a bottle of 1996 Maison Leroy Meursault Charmes. Gentleman Jim was all over its ‘clove cigarettes.’ This was a buttery, polished wine, more like a touch of aged butter, with a caramel thing happening. This was definitely a ‘boat wine,’ aka easy, great drinking (93).

We had a pair of reds with the last of lunch, and things went up a notch. The 1999 DRC Grands Echezeaux was no La Tache, but it was all ’99 DRC. It felt young by comparison to that LT a month ago, but it didn’t have the same air time. As young as it was, it was so great, with amazing red and black fruits to go with tomato and animal aromas and flavors. Its acid smacked that and then some. If I could only own one vintage of DRC for the last forty years, it would be 1999 (96).

The Mogul reached deep into his hull and pulled out a spectacular bottle of 1985 Dujac Clos de la Roche. There was a divine mÄ©lange of fruit flavors to go with its citrus, ‘rose petals’ (Lady Agah) and lavender. The Mogul found it ‘so complex,’ and it damn sure was. A touch of leafy goodness rounded out this just maturing red, and everyone was purring and humming along (98).

Humming Along

There was a quick swim, and a couple more quick Champagnes to wind down our day. The 1969 Krug Collection magnum was rich and buttery, with light vanilla and toffee flavors. There was lots of cream without the creamy, and this was a solid bubbly, a fastball right down the middle (95M).

One last bottle of 1983 Salon was delicious. There were hay, caramel and smoky flavors in this rich, mature bubbly (94).Everyone proceeded to disappear for about 90 minutes, as the main event was actually dinner. Everyone needed to cool down after a fairly epic warmup.

Want

The 1992 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet that followed took immediate charge of the flight. It was bigger and in a perfect spot. It was also minty, ‘more tropical’ per The Mogul, as a 1992 should be. Its flavors were nutty and creamy with an herbal goodness and some ‘lemon oil.’ It was sweeter and rounder, with great acidity, and citrus and pineapple exploded in the glass with time (96+).

The 1988 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne, however, was the flight’s most delicious wine. Wild Bill was in awe, commenting ‘GD what a wine!’ It was creamy and wintry with great supporting earth characteristics. Delicious kept appearing in my notes, and Lulu and The Mogul noted together, ‘oyster shells and shellfish.’ There was this menage a trois of salt, butter and citrus flavors in this rich, bright Chardonnay. There was also slate, cream and dry honey. There was a lot going on in this overlooked vintage for white. This wine was a bruiser without being brutish, and ‘so delicious’ appeared for a third time (97).

A quartet of Rousseaus was about as good as it gets, which each bottle delivering a full throttle experience, beginning with the 1996 Rousseau Chambertin. Lady Agah noted, ‘mushrooms,’ and Wild Bill ‘cherry.’ There were loads of vitamins in this healthy, virile red. It was intense with its acid, another whips and chains ’96, with loads of menthol, meat and oil flavors. Its spicy and spiny personality was ‘oh so good’ (96).

The 1993 Rousseau Chambertin was another ‘so good’ wine. It was more foresty than the ’96, with lots of earth and the raw material goodness that comes with it. This was a rich and heavy wine that was still light on its feet. It was chewy with a great soupy complexity. More forest and earth flavors went with its dark, brooding fruit. This definitely was the wine of the night so far, and Gentleman Jim admired its ‘minty’ flavors (98).

What a Flight

The 1985 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze also had lots of acid, despite the vintage usually being more forward. The quality of the producer was really shining. It had a brothy and sappy personality, along with tea biscuit qualities. It was another delicious wine, with nice ‘leaves’ to it along with excellent fruit. It was a veritable leather fun pack unto itself (96).

The 1999 Rousseau Chambertin was so ample, yet still a teenager. There was more purple to its deep fruit. Jennie P. admired its ‘awesome make up and complexity.’ Despite being so young, it opened up in the glass a bit, resulting in the best bottle of this that I can ever remember having. It was thick, long and spectacular. Gentleman Jim, who was starting to resemble One-Eyed Jack lol, hailed it ‘my favorite at some point.’ What a flight (97).

It’s not often a flight of DRC can be anti-climactic, but it was tough to top that Rousseau flight. The 1990 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was open and chewy with beefy and rich aromas. It was spicy and spiny with lots of acidity to go with its tomato and menthol flavors. This was a hearty and happy 1990 (95+).

I Can See the Finish Line

The 1999 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was even better, as 1999s have proven to be, just in this article alone! There was iron and spice in this muscly wine. Lady Agah noticed ‘hoisin,’ and I noticed loads of black and purple fruit to go with its fine finish (96).

The 2002 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was a dirty bottle, a bit off-putting and somehow off, although it wasn’t cooked or corked (91?).Someone threw in a 1995 DRC Grands Echezeaux, which was rock solid (95).

Everyone was hammered at this point lol, but there was still one flight to go! Help!!! Bordeaux finally reared its head after two spectacular nights (and days) of summer fun. It was such a great flight, too, and all Right Bank 1961 and older, but I didn’t have a lot of gas left. The 1947 L’Evangile was (DQ),but the three that followed were outstanding bottles. The 1947 Vieux Chateau Certan took best of flight; ‘delicious, spectacular and great’ were about as far as I could get in my descriptions. It was a textbook 1947 with decadent plum and chocolate flavors, and an oily and hedonistic personality. The 1955 L’Evangile rocked; I do love 1955 Bordeaux (96).Even the 1961 Ausone was outstanding; Ausones from the 1960s and older are one of the better kept secrets in old Bordeaux – if you can find them (95).

Not Forgotten

While an ambitious afterparty was planned in advance, there would be no after thereafter. It was lights out, a TWKO, technical wine knock out. Nights like these already have me looking forward to 2018’s Summer Nights.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Greatest Wines Weekend II

Saturday night couldn’t come soon enough, this time at Restaurant Daniel. We started off swiftly with a fight of old Cristal. The 1982 Louis Roederer Cristal had a butterscotch and wheaty nose, a bit sandy with some nice zip to it. Its palate was honeyed, long and still fresh. Dave admired its ‘tertiary’ flavors (95+).

A Kiss of Cris

The 1979 Louis Roederer Cristal was drier and longer with even more zip. While long, it was less sweet and flamboyant than the 1982, although Miss Congeniality loved ‘the sugary sweetness of ’79.’ This was dustier on the palate, with flavors of orange rind and game (95).

The 1976 Louis Roederer Cristal was more nutty and a little yeasty. Many thought this was the freshest bottle of the three, but I found it the least interesting (92).

The next flight was a terroir driven horizontal, all White Burgundy from the same vintage. The first wine was a 1982 Sauzet Bienvenues Batard Montrachet. There were aromas of rainwater and anise, along with honeycomb and great pheromones. Its palate was creamy and honeyed and in a perfect spot. There were sweet corn flavors to this delightfully mature yet still youthful white (95).

1982 Step

The 1982 Ramonet Batard Montrachet was a little musty at first, but it improved significantly with the scallop dish that soon followed. It clearly had much more power than the Sauzet; it was also served out of magnum, which certainly helped. Classic nuttiness and foresty mint followed in this smooth and satiny white. It felt younger than the Sauzet; again, likely the magnum factor. Someone hailed it as a “big bastard” and another found it “healthy, lingering bottle” Flavors of honey, rainwater and a touch of exotic cinnamon rounded out this big bottle (96+M).

The 1982 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet was also served out of magnum, yet it came across more polished and smooth. It was rich, buttery, sweet and creamy; perhaps, the most classic of all three. Others observed, ‘minerality’ and ‘burnt match.’ Astroman found it to be a meal by itself and that it had ‘everything including the food.’ Interestingly enough, ten in the group preferred the Sauzet, five the Ramonet and eight the Leflaive (there were shared pours). I was in the Leflaive camp (97).

A flight of younger Coche seemed like a good place to go from here. The 2002 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne was full of white, icy fruit and diamonds. It was clean and fresh with sprinkles of sugar everywhere. Its acidity was superb and gave the wine great sparkle. Buttery and long, this was a classic Coche in every sense of the word (96).

The Gold Standard

The 1996 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne had a bit of dirty birdie in its nose at first, not in a bad way, and in a way that blew off. There were many hues of yellow in this sunny white. It was rich and gamey with great honey and spice flavors. In the end, the majority preferred the 1996. So did I (97).

The 1993 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne was a bit mature and frankly advanced. It was gamier than it should have been, and even though it had a pleasant palate, it felt a touch off (93A).

What can I say about the 1989 Haut Brion that I haven’t already said over and over again. It, along with the 1989 Petrus, are the two greatest “young wines I have ever had, and the youngest wines I would include in my ‘Top Ten’ lifetime category (I would let them share a spot lol). This wine has been great every time I tasted it and has never shut down. ‘Humdinger’ summed it up nicely (98+).

Greatest Young Bordeaux

Its sibling, the 1989 La Mission Haut Brion, is also a rock star wine, and this bottle didn’t disappoint. It was deeper and more decadent than the HB, with its usual thick chocolaty style. Motor oil and black fruits rounded out this spectacular La Miss. I’m not sure if Tom Terrific was asking or telling, but there was some question or comment about the 1990 being even better (98).

Humdinger, Part 2,’ was next, that being the 1989 Petrus. While half the tasters preferred the HB, one-third preferred the Petrus, including me. The Mogul found it ‘opulent,’ and it most certainly was. This was another decadent wine, but in that Pomerol way, textbook in every sense with its purple fruit, heavy cream and chocolate kisses. As good as it gets, and btw, the 1990 is not in the same category, sorry (99).

We traveled back in time to the great 1961s, beginning with a 1961 Palmer that was reboucheed in 1998. Its nose was a city of smoke and sex, intriguing and dangerous. It was musky and husky with lots of good dust. Its palate had a touch of jam on it, along with some honeyed flavors. It was long and rich, but it got grapier in the glass and didn’t lift with time, perhaps a function of the reconditioning (95).

Benchmark ’61s

The 1961 La Mission Haut Brion was a perfect bottle. I wrote, ‘so great’ three times. Its charcoal, gravel and leather married perfectly with its mature fruit flavors of cassis, blackberry and chocolate. The character of this wine really stood out. It just felt like another class of wine whether weight or society. This was an anytime, anywhere bottle (99).

The 1961 Latour was an oakier bottle. It was a lot richer but its flavor profile was a bit reticent and hesitant to show. There is a lot of bottle variation to this legendary wine, and while this was still an outstanding bottle, it was a bit of an afterthought after that La Mission (96).

It was Rousseau’s turn at laying claim to part of the throne in our weekend’s games, and we began with an outstanding 1993 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze. There were deep cherry oil aromas and great musk to its super sexy nose, along with vitamin and yeast complexities. Its palate was rich and decadent, full of citrus and forest flavors. This was still young (96+).

Righteous Rousseau

The 1980 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze was badly corked and a complete (DQ).

The 1969 Rousseau Chambertin more than made up for it. This was a ‘WOW’ wine. It was fleshy and gamey with a dollop of honey to its sweet, musky nose. This twist of lemon accentuated its red fruit flavors, and there were nice earth supplements. Rich and lush, this was a flat out delicious wine, one that is the Burgundy wine of the vintage, for sure (97)

Someone hailed the next flight as “one of the best flights ever” and “a 300 point flight!” I had it at 291+ lol, but it was an amazing flight. The 1978 Dujac Clos St. Denis was ‘textbook’ per Dave. It was full of musk and had a long finish, in that stylish and elegant Burgundy way. It was a gritty wine with nice tension and great minerality. Purple fruits dominated its flavor profile. Ultimately, this was the group’s favorite by far, but not mine (97).

300 Point Flight

The 1978 Dujac Bonnes Mares had a deeper finish and while similar in personality to the CSD, it was richer and thicker overall. There was more toast, earth and game to the Bonnes Mares. Astroman hailed the trio as ‘the most consistent flight of the evening’ (96+).

The 1978 Dujac Clos de la Roche was the best of the flight for me. There was sweeter, purple fruit with many shades of that purple and a creamier personality. There was nice earth to its finish, and while all three had this similarity, I found the sweetness and balance of the CdR superb and a notch up. Its richness and length were stellar as well (98).

We went to La Mouline next, the best of the three ‘LaLas’ if you ask me. The 1978 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline was rich and decadent, full of smoke and white pepper aromas. Its palate was creamy and spiny with a long finish that had pinches of jalapeno. The Mogul found it ‘massive,’ and it was a different level of rich and thick (97).

The 1976 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline was oakier and even thicker, but a bit oaked out for my tastes. While a touch square, exotic fruit developed. Perhaps this vintage of La Mouline needed more time than I had to give it at this point (94+).

While spectacular in its own right, the 1969 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline was a lot more elegant than I remember this wine being, but it might have been ten years since I had it last. These older vintages of La Mouline are super rare. I remember this being a 99 point revelation for me before, but this bottle wasn’t that. Astroman found it ‘like a mature Burg,’ and I saw exactly what he was saying. The Mogul found the ’69 ‘like Stef, but the ’78 was LeBron.’ He then proceeded to put in a bid on the Rockets lol (96).

There were four Solderas on tap next, and my notes started to wane. Twenty-five wines is about all I can focus on these days. I keep forgetting to spit occasionally. The 1990 Soldera was its usual spectacular self; this is one of Italy’s greatest wines ever (98).The 1988 Soldera was a bit dirtier and twangier, beefy and bloody. It was earthy and dirty but got better in the glass (95M).The 1985 Soldera brought more citrus and tang, along with great balance (96M). The 1982 Soldera was an ‘eh,’ with light caramel qualities (90M).

No Mas

As if I wasn’t already fading, three ports came out next. The 1945 Taylor got an A- , the 1935 Taylor got an A, and the 1927 Taylor had the most power and an A+. If you haven’t had a great old Port like one of these, you should try one on for size.

Grade A

Check, please. Sunday was the Grand Finale, except this time it would be lunch. There was already enough the past two nights to give me plenty of sweet dreams so far, but the wine of the weekend was still to come.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Greatest Wines Weekend I

Hey there. It’s been a long time, I shouldn’t have left you…2017 has been a great year for wine auctions, but not for my tasting notes, at least publishing them. I still have a lot of notes, I just haven’t been able to get them out. Need to work on that. With the Fall season arriving and an extremely exciting September already in my air, I finally sat down and started to dig into dozens of pieces of papers of notes, and then, of course, I had to start here.

There was one weekend in 2017 that I could not let pass me and my notes by, and that was our ‘Greatest Wines of the World Weekend,’ held this past May. Collectors came from all over the country, and even outside the country, to New York City for three extraordinary meals at New York’s finest restaurants: 11 Madison, Daniel and Per Se for three days of Bacchanalian bliss.

Thursday night was at 11 Madison, some publications’ #1 restaurant in the world. Sometimes being #1 isn’t enough, as they recently closed for a renovation, I think in July. We kicked things off with a flight of the best Champagne on Earth, Krug’s Clos du Mesnil. We had an inauspicious beginning with a less than perfect bottle of 1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil. Usually this wine is in the 98 point territory for me, but this bottle seemed more open than usual, a bit shut down and not possessing its usual, blistering acidity. I wasn’t sure what exactly was off about this bottle, but I’ve had it enough times to know this one wasn’t perfect (95A).

Let’s Get This Party Started

We quickly got back on track with a 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil. This was a big, heavy and muscly Champagne. It was long and zippy, full-bodied and flat-out great. This was the definition of brawn for bubbly, and its palate added nice grassy and earthy components to go with its rippling fruit (96).

The 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil had the best nose, showing the most fruit and a full kaleidoscope of yellow aromas and flavors. It came across richer accordingly. This was sunshine in a glass, just starting to show some mature flavors, yet still rip-roaring with its acidity and finish. Dave noted, ‘the oldest is the freshest’ (98).

A trio of rare Raveneaus led the white wines to the dinner table, the first being a 1986 Raveneau Blanchot. I think Roy said this was the only wine the entire weekend where he couldn’t find a tasting note anywhere, like ever, either this or the Valmur, for sure, so brace yourselves for the first official tasting note all-time for one of these lol. The Blanchot had a spiny nose with lots of anise, with a touch of what I call ‘windex,’ but not in a negative way. Its palate was lemony a la twisted citrus, and tasty with a bit of youth left to it. This was a delicious Raveneau, but it seemed a touch lesser after the next two wines. It was still Bill’s favorite, as he found it ‘super pure and fresh’ (94).

Three of a Kind

The 1986 Raveneau Valmur was noticeably fuller and richer, and its flavor profile was similar to that of the Blanchot. These were definite birds of a feather, but the Valmur had more layers with its bigger and broader personality. It added some extra complexity of flint and fireplace flavors, and additional flavors of honey and grass while wild herbs emerged. Cam appreciated its ‘nuttiness,’ while another found it the ‘most complex’ of the flight (96).

The Raveneau hierarchy held to form, as the 1986 Raveneau Les Clos was fantastic and my favorite of the flight. There was a pinch more sweetness to the Clos, with kisses of exotic fruits. There was also this gingerbread edge that flirted with all of its other exotic spices. Dave admired the classic ‘oyster shell,’ and I kept writing exotic over and over. It definitely danced on my palate (97).

It was on to Montrachet, but we had an oxidized 2002 DRC Montrachet next. It really sucks when a 5k bottle is off, but we carried on unfazed (DQ).

The 2001 DRC Montrachet was rich and sweet, displaying more tropical qualities and that usual kiss of botrytis that DRC’s Montrachets can often have. There was a bit of coffee and cocoa to this big and long-lasting white. Its finish was another category compared to the Raveneau, and the wine’s power really kicked in on the way down. This was a bruiser versus the ballerina that would follow (95).

It’s as Easy as 01, but Not 2

The 2000 DRC Montrachet was the ballerina, displaying that cleanness and freshness of the vintage, and while it was long and lingering, it was in a much more elegant way. This was classic 2000, and sheer pleasure to drink, although I am not sure it will be getting any better (97).

Bordeaux was next, beginning with a trio of 1982s. It’s tough to reconcile how when I started in the business about 20 years ago, the 1961s were in the same spot that the 1982s are now. They are now the 61s of twenty years ago! Somehow, it just doesn’t compute, but that’s what it is. We kept it all Pauillac, and all First Growth, beginning with the 1982 Lafite Rothschild. The Lafite has always been one of the more elegant ’82s, and this bottle was clean and lean with long and pleasing, classic qualities. The pencil and cedar dueled in its nose, and LA Confidential found its ‘perfume longer.’ This was a beauty not a beast, and surprisingly good with a beet dish, although I was dreading the combination. It actually pushed it from that 95/96 point border to (96).

The 61s’ of Today?

The 1982 Latour has always been one of my favorite ’82s, and this bottle clearly showed why. It took a little time to shake off some cobewebs/must, but once it did, it was so much richer and deeper than the Lafite. It was even inky in a Bordeaux way. Its palate was rich, thick and long with shades of walnut. Its purple and cassis seemed endless. One day everyone will wake up and this wine will be $1k more a bottle, which is still $1k less than the average ’61 (98).

The 1982 Mouton Rothschild is one of my other all-time faves from the vintage, but in a different way. This wine has always been the wine I would want in 2050, God willing. It is still such a tight wine. There was great cigar box to its nose, but this was clearly a wine about structure. There was some nut and carob here, and the Carolina Panther found ‘earth and mushrooms.’ The wine thickened in the glass, almost daring you to drink it over the next 24 hours (97+).

We went from one end of the Bordeaux spectrum to the other, as in a flight of 1928s. The 1928 Palmer was an all-star bottle, and actually the consensus favorite of the flight. It had what I would call a perfect claret nose. It was sweet with cassis, tobacco, candle wax and cream. It was like a good day on Wall Street: rich but getting richer by the minute. The Jackal gave it 98 points, and I had to agree (98).

Everlasting

The 1928 Mouton Rothschild was surprisingly lighter than the Palmer. There was more dryness showing in the Mouton, along with more cobwebs and old library. This bottle was on the drier side and no match for the Palmer despite a pleasing personality in general (94).

If there were a “king of the business” in 1928, it would have to be the 1928 Latour. While the Latour was clearly the longest wine of the flight, it was also much more elegant than I remembered. Of course, at this age, there is so much bottle variation, even within the realm of positive experiences, which this certainly was. Its acidity really stood out, and this high-pitched Latour definitely hit a high note, just not as high as the Palmer (96).

We segued to Italy next and a trio of Giacosas, and a trio of Santo Stefano Riservas. The 1978 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva was a bit peculiar, and far from my cherished memories of this wine. It has been a while, I will confess. The ’78 had this Dr. Brown’s celery soda thing happening, with lots of hay, animal and brown sugar. It was browning in general, but I didn’t think the wine was off. Maybe it was (93?).

Lost in Translation

The 1985 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva was similar to the ’78 somewhat, but richer with more fruit and more of that flavor I was looking for. This was a solid wine with a gritty finish and dry desert flavors (95).

The 1990 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva was served out of magnum, which in retrospect was probably a mistake. It was just too young. This was even drier than the first two, but it was also longer and zippier, no doubt aided by the magnum factor. This was tight, dry and unyielding. I must say while I am a huge fan of Giacosa, I was quite disappointed by this flight. “Tough company?” I questioned (94M).

Three vintages of Jayer Cros Parantoux are a good cure for a disappointing flight, especially when the first is a 1991 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux. Its nose was all about the deep purple, with enough earth and vitamins to support a small colony. This was deep, deep inside my mind with just one whiff. Thick and long, it was still a baby. It was powerful and dense with great expression on its finish. The Jackal found it had “the most length” of the flight, and he was right again. He must have been copying my notes (98).

The One and Only

While the 1988 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux was still outstanding, it seemed simple compared to the 1991. Maybe closed is a better word choice. It was a clean, lean, fighting machine that was nice but not as naughty as I would have liked (94).

The 1986 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux was tasty and creamy, showing more flesh and game than either of the previous two wines. This was open for business by comparison. Jayer was a master of the “off” vintages like 1986, but the words “off vintage” seem like a misnomer, especially in today’s Burgundy world. The ’86 had a great m_lange of fruit flavors, showing all different types of skin, but mainly red, purple and black (95).

Where could we go from here? Three DRC wines from 1978? Oh, ok, fine : ) The 1978 DRC Echezeaux was full of beef, blood, rose and menthol. There were beautiful citrus flavors, and it possessed all the autumn goodness of Fall in New York City. It was older, but not old, and it definitely outboxed its weight class. This was the little engine that could in this flight (96).

Starring Echezeaux

The 1978 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was solid. It was big and full-bodied with a long, minerally finish. The Mogul wasn’t feeling it, and it was a bit dry and dirty compared to the Echezeaux. The RSV was fuller, but not better. Many feel DRC’s RSV really started to achieve what it should over the last twenty years, and that earlier vintages are always good but never great (94).

The last wine of this illustrious flight was much gamier and open compared to its siblings. The 1978 DRC Richebourg was open like 24-7 and almost syrupy with more concentration. This was the richest and heaviest of the flight, but the Echezeaux kind of stole its show (96).

Three Chaves from 1990 were the last flight on this night, and we snuck in a 1990 Chave Hermitage Blanc. I love going back to great whites after reds; I don’t think enough people realize that you can. It almost serves as a palate refresher. The Chave Blanc was marzipan city. It was just hitting that point of maturity where it felt ready. Dave admired its ‘texture’ (94).

Take This Cork and Chave It

The night was coming to a close, and so were my note-taking skills. “Bacon, blood, pig, beef, smoke”summed up the 1990 Chave Hermitage. And notes of Viognier, even though I am not sure any is in it lol. It was damn good (96).

The 1990 Chave Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin was corked. Fuuuuuuuck. Two 5k bottles down the drain. No one said fine and rare wine was easy. Thankfully, everyone in attendance understood these things happen and didn’t let it affect their spectacular night (DQ).

There was one more 5k bottle to go, a 2005 Egon Muller Goldkapsel TBA. All I had in me was ‘spectacular’ and ‘so sweet’ (97).

TBA TBD

While this was an amazing evening in every which way (let’s not forget food and company), it was a bit of a warmup for the two sessions that would follow. It was taxi time, and in less than 24 hours we would be at Daniel, doing it all over again.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

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“Under the law of the U.S., intoxicating liquor must not be sold or supplied to a minor (at least age 21) in the course of business.”

根據香港法律,不得在業務過程中,向未成年人售賣或供應令人醺醉的酒類。
Under the law of Hong Kong, intoxicating liquor must not be sold or supplied to a minor in the course of business.

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