Vintage Tastings

By John Kapon

Experience the finest and rarest wines in the world through the eyes and palate of Acker Chairman and globally renowned master taster, John Kapon (our “JK”). “Vintage Tastings” is a written journal chronicling the incredible bottles opened at some of the most exclusive tastings, wine dinners, and events all over the globe. These entries represent JK’s commitment to capturing and sharing the ephemeral nature and ultimate privilege of tasting the world’s rarest wines. Although ratings are based on a 100-point scale, JK believes there is no such thing as a 100-point wine. Point scores assigned to each wine are his own personal attempt to quantify the quality of each experience.

Miami is Warm, Europe is Cold

Ok so my attempt to write three notes a day has been an epic fail so far in 2018, but there is still hope. If I can combo my first week in Hong Kong with my next in March and somehow get current with the massively insane Grande Fete de Bourgogne, I might actually be able to catch up and start flying, so to speak.

But first, I must start the three notes a day thing, so today I start with twelve, two separate nights in two separate continents that were both noteworthy. The first was in Miami, where the Ringmaster gathered a few of his friends for a great night of La Tache and Petrus, two of my favorite things. I brought along Alexander The Great and Big Ed, two of my favorite “locals.”

Hi Miami

I can safely say that the weather in Miami is much better than the weather in NYC in February, and whites are always a must in Miami. The 2011 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche was a bit oaky at first with a big, rich, buttery nose. It also had a big mouthfeel, quite creamy with more butter flavors and a heavy personality. There were nice citrus flavors that emerged once its oak blew off in the glass. (93)

White Wine

There was an unimpressive 2009 Pape Clement Blanc next. I have had excellent bottles of other vintages of this wine in the past, but I was very under-impressed with the 2009. It was pungent and sweaty in the nose, with some grapefruit and other yellow fruits, but I found its palate very one dimensional and unexciting. (87)

The 1996 Haut Brion Blanc was ‘the best white’ per the Ringmaster, and he was right. It had a fantastic nose of glue city, with intense, rich and twisted flavors that were dry with apricot and lanolin hints. Its structure and density were ‘wow’ and ‘wow.’ HBB is always a bit of an S&M wine, and sometimes it’s good to be a masochist when on the drinking end. (96).

Big Ed set the LT’s in motion with a 2001 DRC La Tache. He thought it might be too young, but I didn’t find that the case 100%. There were great and complicated aromas of musk, animal, forest, black fruit, tar and minerals. Its palate was rich, buttery and smooth, although a touch softer than I expected. Admittedly, we had a super spicy dish with the whites, and my palate needed some time to recover, so that might have been some of the story. (95).

La Tache

The 1989 DRC La Tache that followed had more vim and vigor, perhaps more discoverable as my palate recovered. There were more rubber, leather and citrus aromas and flavors. Its palate was zippy with great citrus smack to its finish. (95+).

The 1988 DRC La Tache was also vimful, on the spicier side but definitely not with the fruit of the 2001. This was more on the whips and chains side of the fence, characteristic of the vintage. Baby definitely had back, similarly zippy and zoomy to the 1989, although more so. It had excellent leather and citrus flavors. (96+).

For those of you that have been reading my notes for a while, you will know that I consider there to be few greater wines ever made in Bordeaux than the 1989 Petrus, and it showed why once again. It basically crushed the LTs, no contest. It was clearly the best wine of the night. Rich and decadent, its saucy and syrupy chocolate and purple fruit oozed out of the glass. You almost had to squeeze it as if it was in a toothpaste tube. Its finish was vim city meets smack that, and its palate wasn’t just rich – it was wealthy. It is an any time, anywhere wine. (99).

The One and Only

We finished with a 1962 Quinto do Noval Nacional. I always find it tough to gather enough energy for tasting notes of dessert wines, and this was no exception. It was smoother than I expected but, of course, great. (96).

Europe, on the other hand, is fucking cold in February. I am now in the middle of six days and five cities in Europe (hello from Oslo), and my first stop was one of my favorite tasting companions in the world, the Keymaster.

It was a quiet night by usual standards, but a welcome one, nonetheless. In fact, the theme would be ‘one’, which I found quite appropriate, since I like being number one, in case you haven’t heard ; )

The Happy Recap

Everything was served blind, and we were joined by the French Paradox, always a welcome guest at the dinner table. The first wine was Champagne, and a mature one with a light, dusty petillance. There were dry flavors of orange and rust with a dollop of honey at its core. It was smooth and tasty with cream soda flavors and inching towards outstanding with each sip. The Paradox noted, ‘pamplemousse’ on its finish, aka grapefruit. I noted hay flavors, and the Keymaster ‘caramel apple.’ It was an ultimately outstanding and original bottle of 1971 Lanson Red Label Champagne. (95).

The second wine had me guessing white Burgundy or Rhone at first, but ultimately it was white Bordeaux! The three hours of decanting definitely threw me off the scent at first, but once I knew, it was, of course, more obvious! Glue permeated its nose, and this was a mature and tasty white with amber flavors and that classic taste of Graves. Its finish was long like a red. ‘Well balanced and mature’ and ‘good minerals’ came from the crowd. I was stunned to find out this was a 1981 Haut Brion Blanc, and even more stunned when I learned it was open for three hours. Impressive for the off vintage and the air time. (93)!

The third wine had a superb and seductive nose, pure fruit and pure cherry, or ‘griottes’ as the Paradox noted. Olives and spice played their way into the game, and this was a fresh and lovely red. Its sweet fruit and game were delicious at first, but the wine waned a bit in the glass. It got a little sweet, and some bath soap emerged, but that was a heck of a first glass of 1991 Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru. (92).

I bought something off the list to round out our evening and put my friends to the test. The Keymaster noted a ‘bloody taste,’ and there was much more power and breed here in this delightfully (relatively) open 2011 Rousseau Chambertin. Even after tasting 87 vintages of Rousseau wines a couple weeks ago (yes, trying to get to that one), I am always ready for more! There was a lot of Asian spice here, and the Keymaster ntoed, ‘dim sum.’ Black fruits and meat off the bone sizzled in my mouth in this open, rich and approachable Chambertin that still had a lot of life left in it, of course (95).

Ok, twelve more notes on the books, I think I can, I think I can…

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Resolutions

Upon 2018’s arrival, I had a few resolutions I set for myself, but only one that relates to what you are reading right now: to keep current with my wine tasting notes. I thought about it, and came up with a simple solution: to write up three notes a day. Seems easy enough, right? Ten to fifteen minutes a day, and I could have myself 1000 published wine notes a year. The consumed bottles are there, trust me. Well, January has almost come and gone, and I still need to resolve my resolution. Work and family have not left much time on the table. So here is my attempt to get current with January, and start my resolution in February. I know I will be in a big hole very quickly, as our Grande Fete de Bourgogne from February 3-9 will see an enormous amount of great Red Burgundies get consumed.

My first great wine weekend of 2018 was in Los Angeles, where the most magical weekend occurred thanks to The Rev. This was no ordinary weekend, as The Rev finally got married after 57 years of that single life. Congrats again brother! And The Rev doesn’t have ordinary friends either, including a band of merry wine collectors that flocked together all weekend amongst his starry friends.

We started with an informal gathering at The Rev’s house on Friday night, where a trio of noteworthy wines were sampled, beginning with a 1986 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche. This was one of the most delicious and mature white Burgundies I have ever tasted. The popcorn and caramel combination was one to make children giddy, and a little bit of alcohol translated to us adults. It was so creamy and tasty, with buttery and sunsetting yellow fruits in the most magical and breathtaking way. It won’t get any better, but it is oh so good right now. Thirty years for that perfect Montrachet experience? This was Exhibit A. There was a nuttiness on top that also fulfilled the icing on this golden cake. Wow (97+).

About as Good as It Gets

The 1959 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape that followed was also delicious, albeit in a much different way. I love Beaucastels from the ’50s and ’60s, they never disappoint me. This had a wicked combination of red and brown fruits, with lots of lip smacking autumnal edges. The animal, earth and game were here, along with that hot stone and Provencal spice. The intensity in the mouth was noteworthy, almost in a peanut butter, lick your mouth all over kind of way. There was still loads of life in this ancient wonder (96).

Rhô ne Ranger

The last noteworthy wine on this casual evening was a 1997 Leroy Chambertin. Honestly, this was a bit disappointing for this wine in general. I know 1997 isn’t the greatest of vintages, and this didn’t certainly help its cause with the naysayers. It was still a very good wine, but after the two sizzlers we just had, it just didn’t stack up. It had the usual black fruits and rubber boots Domaine Leroy can have, and while less mature than most 1997 Burgs, it lacked definition. Citrus twists played on its finish (92).

Only 70 Cases Made

The next night was the first official great wine dinner of the year, and it was a Bad Boy production. He brought the Attorney General with him, as he tends to do in order to protect himself lol. Other than that, it was all young ladies, my wife included : )

We started with the 1996 Dom Perignon, which was what I would call good not great. It opened up in the glass, but it was a bit whitewall finish without much fruit development, and it had that typical young DP flavor profile of ice ice baby. Honestly, I can live without DPs younger than 1990 (92).

The 1990 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne was an outstanding bottle, much better than the DP, although the AG found it a touch corked. I could work my way past that to enjoy classic butterscotch aromas and flavors, along with fat fruit and a long, extended finish. There are very few Champagnes as unique and as fine as CdC (95A).

Knight in Yellow Satin

The 2010 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne was recently released, later than other younger vintages, and the Bad Boy was eager to try it. That smoky, sexy, signature Coche nose oozed out the glass. It was very young, but very vibrant. It was rich and tasty with nice spice but a wintry chill, as it was a bit shut down in the middle. While a touch shy, it was still a wicked game. Its yellow sunshine started to thaw its icy edges and reassured me that Spring was coming soon. The AG found it ‘sublime but forget about ’em for a while.’ I think one of the ladies found it ‘yum’ (97+).

Coche!

The 1988 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze that followed was just starting to sing, as many top 1988s are. After decades of tight fruit and hard finishes, the 1988s have finally arrived. There was great perfume to this Beze. It was rich and sumptuous with autumnal tea leaves and game qualities. Sous bois was definitely there, as was rich and flavorful bouillon flavors. This felt fully mature, and the AG found it ‘a little oaky’ (95).

Big Time Burgundies

The 1996 Roumier Bonnes Mares was rich, dense and ‘extracted’ per the AG. This was a fantastic show for both Roumier and 1996, another vintage really coming into its own. There were loads of dark, black fruits along with a long, zippy finish. I was impressed how decadent this Roumier was, as they often take much more time to come around, and its heavy personality didn’t feel heavy handed. This was a great wine, flirting with another category (96+).

We changed gears to Italy and a 1998 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva. RIP, Bruno. A bit of celery soda came out initially, in a sweet and ripe way. There were classic tobacco and tar edges, but this particular vintage of Giacosa seemed to be maturing at a faster rate than other vintages. It was a bit gamy and jammy in that Italian way. It did improve in the glass (94).

RIP Bruno Giacosa

Next up was a 2001 Giacosa Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva, which was definitely in Beast Mode. This is the forgotten, great Barbaresco made by Giacosa. It is very rarely seen. This was an incredibly thick and long wine, tight for sure, but ready to play. It was dry like the Sahara in a good way, and intense like an Arabian prince. I was inspired by this wine, and so was the Bad Boy, who cleaned out the rest of my stock (97).

The last wine of the night was an excellent 1994 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino. It might have been a Riserva, I didn’t notice. In my mind, there is only one Soldera, and it is one of the truly great wines of the world. This was served a bit cold, but it was still a fastball of a Brunello that outpunched the weight class of its vintage. It was rich without being spectacular, but a delicious wine that also improved in the glass (93).

We all went on our merry way, only to reconvene for the big day. It was a magical wedding, love was everywhere, especially on our table with over a dozen incredible wines. It was a real party, so I didn’t take thorough notes, but I got to have a lot of interesting discussions with people with lots of Grammys. Here were the wines:

A quick paragraph about the wines. The 1990 Krug was impressive, much more so than a recent ’85 Collection sampled. The 1999 Leflaive totally outclassed the 2002, which seemed advancing faster than I would think, which could have been the bottle. I am a huge fan of 1999 White Burgundies, which remain full, strong and long wines. Coche is Coche, and they hit the nail on the head in 2001, not suffering from too much botrytis or over-ripeness. The Rousseau CSJ and Dominus both under impressed, both showing more green than I care for, and I like both wines in general. The Rousseau was especially surprising given what a smoke show the 2001 Beze was, which was outstanding. So was the 1990 DRC RSV, and the 1994 Insignia left a guy who doesn’t drink much Cali cabs impressed as well. The two wines of the night were a spectacular 1974 Heitz Martha’s and 1993 Dujac Bonnes Mares. Superior stuff.

Wedding Reds

Ok so I made it through my first wine weekend of 2018. Let’s see if I can keep it up. That means another article next week before our Grande Fete de Bourgogne, as I was a busy boy in Hong Kong this week. Here’s to a resolution I will finally keep!

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Wines Of The Year 2017

Happy New Year y’all. May 2018 be your best vintage yet! 2017 was a great year for Acker, and a lot of hard work. There was also a lot of great wine. Here are my Top Ten wines of 2017 – at least the ones I can remember, or found the notes for. There’s probably a ten percent margin of error lol. The envelopes please…

#10 – In tenth place, we have a ‘regular’ guest, the 1989 Haut Brion. Simply put, this is one of the greatest Bordeaux ever made, and I am not sure there has been a wine made this spectacular in Bordeaux ever since, well besides #8 on this list. The 1989 HB always delivers. ‘What can I say about the 1989 Haut Brion that I haven’t already said over and over again. It, along with the 1989 Petrus, are the two greatest ‘young’ wines I have ever had, and the youngest wines I would include in my ‘Top Ten’ lifetime category (I would let them share a spot lol). This wine has been great every time I tasted it and has never shut down. ‘Humdinger’ summed it up nicely.’ Tasted three times with consistent notes (98+)

1989 Haut Brion

#9 – Unfortunately, I think the 1988 DRC Romanee Conti was the only bottle of RC I had this year. No, I had a corked bottle of 1962, and yes, it hurt. This bottle of ’88 was thanks to The Maestro, and an absolute thrill. ‘A ‘serious’ blind wine was served next, and the Romanee Conti guesses came quickly. There was this autumnal oil to the nose, along with sweet brown sugar, menthol, gingerbread and more spice. This was a ‘crazy time’ wine. More sweet brown sugar and oats played together nicely on the palate, and this lip smacking red had a citrus spank to its finish that hurt so good. It wasn’t from the 1990s, not 1980s, had to be 1978 RC, I mused. It was a stunningly good bottle of 1988 DRC Romanee Conti. Wow. I was impressed, not only how good, but how much more ready it was than I thought an ’88 would be. I need to investigate a few more from this vintage in early 2018!’ (98+)

1988 DRC Romanee Conti

#8 – Another ‘regular’ on any of my Top Ten lists is the 1989 Petrus. I can’t wait to have it every year for the rest of my life. ”Humdinger, Part 2,’ was next, that being the 1989 Petrus. While half the tasters preferred the HB, one-third preferred the Petrus, including me. The Mogul found it ‘opulent,’ and it most certainly was. This was another decadent wine, but in that Pomerol way, textbook in every sense with its purple fruit, heavy cream and chocolate kisses. As good as it gets, and btw, the 1990 is not in the same category, sorry.’ (99)

1989 Petrus

#7 – It’s amazing how people forget how good Yquem is. I get it, it’s tough to drink a whole bottle of sweet wine, you really need an entourage. But when you get a great old one, it is tough to beat, especially at the end of a night. Even a young one, starting with 2001. A bottle of 1921 Yquem proved epic this year, although my notes weren’t epic due to a massive number of bottles consumed beforehand. ‘There were a few epic sweet wines served at the end of this epic lunch, a 1921 Yquem(99),a 1863 Taylor Single Harvest Port (98) and a 1900 Krohn Reserva Port (97), I think. Game, set, match. I was no match for The Maestro, but I am definitely game to try again!’

1921 Yquem

#6 – There is nothing quite like old Bordeaux. Yes, for the first 30 years, nothing can compare to Burgundy. After that, for the next twenty years, it can be a coin flip. When it comes to fifty years or older, it is tough to beat Bordeaux, and I had a perfect bottle of 1961 La Mission Haut Brion at age 56. By the way, La Miss might be the best Bordeaux of the 20th Century pound for pound, vintage after vintage. ‘I wrote, ‘so great’ three times. Its charcoal, gravel and leather married perfectly with its mature fruit flavors of cassis, blackberry and chocolate. The character of this wine really stood out. It just felt like another class of wine whether weight or society. This was an anytime, anywhere bottle.’ (99)

1961 La Mission Haut Brion

#5 – 1978 DRC La Tache. I think La Tache is another given for any year’s Top Ten, and so many vintages to choose from. This year, I only have three : ) Gentleman Jim and Lady Agah brought a perfect bottle to our December Holiday Auction at Bouley in New York City. We had already had a ’59 Latour, a ’59 Haut Brion, a ’91 Chave Cuvee Cathelin and dozens of other wines. Nothing except the Cathelin was even close. Didn’t take a note as notes are tough to take at auctions, but I sure as heck remember.’ (99)

1978 DRC La Tache

#4 – It is tough to find a wine less than 20 years old better than the 1999 DRC La Tache. Aubert once told me that the ’99s might be the best vintage ever made at the Domaine. Need I say more? ‘The legend of all legends, the 1999 DRC La Tache, delivered another near perfect performance. ‘Amazing,’ was all that needed to be said. This is one of the greatest Burgundies ever made.’ (99)

1999 DRC La Tache

#3 – I, along with many Burgundy lovers I know, have long been partial to 1971s, especially when they are DRCs. I have this wine about 15-20 times, and 15 or 20 more times would not be enough. Another of the all-time great La Taches, and something about where it is right now that makes it my favorite of the three 99ers. ‘The 1971 DRC La Tache was another perfect bottle, smoky and sexy in every which way. This was a great, thick wine that exuded greatness. This wine was full of ceramic spices and had cement on its finish, sleeping with the fishes style. This was a bottle that ended all discussions, there was no need for life thereafter. It was ‘so good.” (99)

1971 DRC La Tache

#2 – Any bottle of Jayer is now officially a special occasion. A recent bottle in Tokyo of 1995 Jayer Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which I never even knew existed, proved to be an exhilarating bottle, punching above its weight class and then some. A bottle of 1990 Henri (for Georges) Jayer Echezeaux was even more so, thanks to the cellar of Wilf Jaeger at a recent ‘Hommage a Wolfgang Grunewald’ dinner in LA. I need to write that dinner up. ‘Spectacular!!! Aromas and flavors of purple, grape, currant and blackberry put on a show. Spectacular kept appearing in my notes, as did great balance between its fruit and acidity. This was a long and strong wine, and I couldn’t stop drinking it despite two other superlative 1990s in the flight, those being Rousseau and Leroy Chambertins. There is Burgundy, and there is Henri Jayer.’ (99)

1990 Henri (for Georges) Jayer Echezeaux

#1 – For our ‘Greatest Wines Weekend,’ which featured about 100 of the World’s finest and rarest wines ever made, there was one wine that stood above the rest: the 1945 Mouton Rothschild. It remains on my all time Top Ten list, and it doesn’t look to be leaving any time soon. ‘There had to be one wine of the weekend, and it might as well have been the 1945 Mouton Rothschild. ‘OH YEAH’ is how my notes started. This wine was everything it could be and should be, an absolutely perfect bottle. It was nutty with aromas of caramel, cream, cedar and carob. This was sexy everywhere, tall dark and handsome, all that and then some. This was a superman amongst boys, and it still felt like it had a long way to go. It ended up being wine of the weekend.’ (99+)

1945 Mouton Rothschild

I could end this article here, but it just doesn’t feel right. There were so many other exceptional wines had this year, but where to draw the line? Well, 97 points and up, of course. That is equivalent to the ‘best wines of my life’ category. This is probably a good time to give a ‘this is how I rate’ review. 95-96 is outstanding, 93-94 is excellent and 90-92 is very good. For me, all fine wines should fall into one of these four categories; first, is it excellent? Is it outstanding? Etc. If a wine is very good bordering on excellent, then it is 92 points as opposed to 91 or 90. That’s about as quick a summary as I can make. And now for the rest of the ‘Wines of the Year 2017.’

Crap, in my final scrum amongst all my notes to get all those 97 point and up wines, I found one more 99 point wine I totally forgot, the 1992 Ramonet Montrachet. Let’s call it #4a to break up that run of La Taches lol. ‘The Ramonet was toasty, milky and caramel-y, this was a bang zoom kind of wine and one of the greatest white wines ever made. Flavors of mint, corn, syrup, butter and kinky white chocolate had me talking GOAT. Maaaaaaaaa.’ (99)

Ok, just to be completely frank, there were two more wines I found at 98+ so technically they should have been in my Top Thirteen, aka the Baker’s Dozen, fuck fuck fuck…they were the 1959 Lafite and Mouton, but I am just in too deep trying to finish this damn thing and I need to get the January HK catalog on the press, so deal with it : )

Here are the rest, oldest to youngest, because older is always better, at least for wine : )

1. 1959 Lafite Rothschild (98+)
2. 1959 Mouton Rothschild (98+) twice
3. 1863 Taylor Single Harvest Port (98)
4. 1928 Palmer (98)
5. 1959 Latour (98) twice
6. 1974 Heitz MarthaÍs Vineyard (98)
7. 1975 La Mission Haut Brion (98)
8. 1978 Dujac Clos de la Roche (98)
9. 1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle (98)
10. 1982 Latour (98)
11. 1985 Dujac Clos de la Roche (98)
12. 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil (98)
13. 1989 La Mission Haut Brion (98) twice
14. 1990 Beausejour Duffau (98)
15. 1990 Henri Jayer Vosne Cros Parantoux (98)
16. 1990 Meo-Camuzet Richebourg (98)
17. 1990 Soldera Brunello Riserva (98)
18. 1991 Henri Jayer Vosne Cros Parantoux (98)
19. 1993 Rousseau Chambertin (98)
20. 1996 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres (98)
21. 1999 DRC Montrachet (98)
22. 2001 G. Conterno Barolo Monfortino Rsrva (98)
23. 1978 Ramonet Montrachet (97+A) slightly corked
24. 1982 Mouton Rothschild (97+)
25. 2002 Ramonet Montrachet (97+)
26. 2006 Comte Liger-Belair La Romanee (97+)
27. 1900 Krohn Reserve Port (97)
28. 1945 Haut Brion (97)
29. 1953 Mouton Rothschild (97)
30. 1959 Lafite Rothschild (97) bottle variation
31. 1961 G. Conterno Barolo Monfortino Rsrva (97)
32. 1961 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle (97)
33. 1968 Heitz MarthaÍs Vineyard (97)
34. 1969 Rousseau Chambertin (97)
35. 1971 DRC Richebourg (97)
36. 1971 Vogue Musigny VV (97)
37. 1978 Dujac Clos St. Denis (97)
38. 1978 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline (97)
39. 1979 Chateau Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape (97)
40. 1982 Dom. Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet (97)
41. 1982 Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne (97)
42. 1982 Pichon Lalande (97)
43. 1985 DRC Richebourg (97)
44. 1985 Roumier Musigny (97)
45. 1985 Rousseau Gevrey Clos St. Jacques (97)
46. 1986 Ramonet Bienvenues Batard (97)
47. 1986 Raveneau Chablis Les Clos (97)
48. 1988 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne (97)
49. 1988 Krug (Magnum) (97)
50. 1988 Roumier Musigny (97) three times
51. 1988 Salon (97)
52. 1990 Krug (97)
53. 1990 Latour (97)
54. 1990 Rousseau Chambertin (97)
55. 1993 DRC La Tache (Jeroboam) (97)
56. 1993 Dujac Bonnes Mares (97)
57. 1993 Dujac Clos de la Roche (97)
58. 1996 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne (97)
59. 1996 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet (97)
60. 1997 Jayer Echezeaux (97)
61. 1999 DRC Richebourg (97)
62. 1999 Ramonet Montrachet (97)
63. 1999 Roumier Chambolle Amoureuses (97)
64. 1999 Rousseau Chambertin (97)
65. 2000 DRC Montrachet (97)
66. 2005 Egon Muller Goldkapsel TBA (97)
67. 2010 DRC Montrachet (97)
68. 2012 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne (97)

So 84 wines tasted in 2017 that I would consider amongst the greatest wines in my life, that’s about three bottles every two weeks to have a ‘wine of your life.’ I think that is a good goal for all in 2018. Of course, if I didn’t miss that 1947 weekend in South America due to last second drama, I would have made it to 100, I know it!!! Now I am mad about that weekend, let’s just say that when push comes to shove, family comes first…grrrrrrrr…and thanks to The Ambassador for the invite…

Anyway, here’s to a delicious 2018 to all, drink up and be merry!

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Obrigado, Maestro

While Greater China and the USA are the two lions sharing most of the free market’s fine and rare wine in the world today, there is a third lion, perhaps more of a cub when it comes to its wine, but one that already knows how to roar. I try to go to Brazil at least twice a year, as the passion, energy and culture of the Brazilian people is a true joy to share. Of course, it is more joyous when there are bottles of wine on the table, and the most joyous when they are the world’s finest and rarest.

One of my first and dearest friends in Brazil is known as The Ringmaster. The name is self-explanatory, and The Ringmaster once again planted a seed for a tremendous day to grow into one of the most memorable meals I have had all year. The Maestro was our host, a man who loves wine as much as any that I have ever met, and his spectacular apartment in Sao Paulo was the setting for a lunch that went well into the evening.

Each flight was served ‘single blind,’ so we knew the wines, but we did not know the order, and we started with some Champagne, Krug, of course. The first bubbly was my favorite; its nose was tight with dried qualities and a more rusty personality. The Traveling Man admired its ‘awesome acidity,’ and its palate was delicious, with a delectable citric verve to its super fresh style. There were exotic, green fruit flavors with twists of lime here, and this was the most complicated bubbly at the moment. We were all stunned to discover that this was the ‘regular’ 1990 Krug, given that the other two in this flight were Clos du Mesnils. I thought this was the 1988 Mesnil (97).

Major Upset

The second Krug in this flight I guessed correctly, with it being a 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil. There was immediately more oak noticeable in the nose. It had the most power of the flight, but it was a bit dirty and clumsy by comparison to the first Champagne. It was rich and round with soda and cracker qualities, and the vanilla came in as the oak morphed a bit in the glass (95+).

The 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil was delicious; it was the most ready to go and approachable, which is why I thought it was the 1990 regular. It was quite tasty with citrus and toffee twists, along with pleasant spices and a nice mahogany or interior wood quality. However, it was lighter than the first two! The ’88 has long been one of my favorite Krug vintages, so I was surprised with its more demure personality. It got more limey in the glass (95).

The next flight was all Montrachet and all 1999, featuring DRC, Ramonet and Lafon. Yum. The first Montrachet had a darker color, or a deeper gold I should say. Its buttery nose had lots of spice, great lemon, with a little chiffon to it. Its palate was sweet, rich and round, and its finish felt completely integrated at first. There was a kiss of botrytis for sure. A little food brought out its deep and unfurling acidity, and it kept gaining and gaining in the glass. Ultimately, this 1999 DRC Montrachet was the biggest and baddest in the flight (98).

1999 Montrachets

At first, I preferred the 1999 Ramonet Montrachet, whose mintier nose was a giveaway for Ramonet. It felt a lot more wound up and intense than the DRC in the beginning. There was great spice and super spine here, a bit in the S&M direction, as the wine whipped my palate into submission (97).

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The 1999 Lafon Montrachet was unfortunately oxidized (DQ), so The Maestro quickly disappeared to his cellar for a mystery white to replace it. He noted ‘sesame’ in the nose, while The Ringmaster found ‘peach marmalade.’ It was leaner than the 1999 and reminded me of the 2000 vintage a bit, but in a much younger way. My guesses were all over the place, and I was thinking older than it really was. The Traveling Man guessed 2009, and he was a lot closer to the actual vintage of this 2012 DRC Montrachet. It was still baby juice compared to the 1999s; I recommend waiting at least ten years before cracking those DRC Montys (94+).

It was on to the red Burgundies, and a classic DRC vs. Leroy showdown. It was easy to see the difference right away, and I correctly guessed the first one being the 1988 DRC Richebourg. There were bright cherry and tomato aromas, along with that good dirt and lots of earth to go with it. There was also some wet fur, in a good way. This was a rich and flavorful red, with chalky flavors and red citrus twits in a limestone way. This was an impressive ’88, and the best ’88 DRC I could remember having. I guess they are finally hitting their stride! There was great tanning expression on its brighter finish (96).

Lucky ‘88s

The 1988 Leroy Richebourg was much richer with a cherry cough syrup thing happening, not in a negative way. It was rich and almost syrupy, oily and long with loads of black fruits on its finish. At first, I found the two Richebourgs qualitatively equal despite being stylistically different (both around 95 points), but after some time in the glass, I agreed with Dr. Feelgood that the DRC was the better wine (94).

We did 1990 and 1978 in the Rhone, Civil War Style, beginning with the South. The first wine was a quintessential Chateauneuf du Pape, with layers of sweet strawberry fruit, hot stones, garrigue, bacon and violets. Its palate was rich, creamy, long and smooth. The 1990 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape charmed me at first with its sweetness and openness, but ultimately it would succumb to the beast that followed (95).

Civil War

Interestingly, the second C du P was a bit yeasty and weird at first. There was this dirty pool water thing as the Rayas giggled its way into my heart. The 1990 Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins was clearly stronger and blacker; it flexed a lot more muscle and sprinkled a lot of pepper around the nose. Its dirty qualities transformed into oats and cereal, along with a lot of farm goodness. In the end, the Celestins was deeper, longer and more complex (96+).

The North was, as you might guess, a Chave La Chapelle throwdown. The 1978 Chave Hermitage had a sweet and perfumed nose with light pepper, gorgeous violet and whiffs of bacon, all in the right places. This was very classic, very rich and very round (96).

As good as the Chave was, the 1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle was one of the wines of the day so far. There was so much animal here with loads of menthol. The was a gamey and meaty wine that was absolutely delicious and oh so good. ‘GREAT’ summed it up (98).

We went to Bordeaux next, and a duo of 1959s. The first had deep fruit that was dark and creamy, with touches of forest, wheat, oat and chocolate. It was blacker than the second, gritty and wheaty with darker hues of fruit. This was a good but not great bottle of 1959 Latour. It’s nice when good can still be 95 points (95).

1959 Greatness

The 1959 Mouton Rothschild was stronger and longer, clearly the better bottle. Its cassis, chocolate and mint were divinely proportioned and present. This was a red wine that was actually a cheese killer ”“ usually cheese kills red wines but not this time. This was a classic claret, with that unique Mouton style, in a perfect place (98).

A ‘serious’ blind wine was served next, and the Romanee Conti guesses came quickly. There was this autumnal oil to the nose, along with sweet brown sugar, menthol, gingerbread and more spice. This was a ‘crazy time’ wine. More sweet brown sugar and oats played together nicely on the palate, and this lip smacking red had a citrus spank to its finish that hurt so good. It wasn’t from the 1990s, not 1980s, had to be 1978 RC, I mused. It was a stunningly good bottle of 1988 DRC Romanee Conti. Wow. I was impressed, not only how good, but how much more ready it was than I thought an ’88 would be. I need to investigate a few more from this vintage in early 2018 (98+)!

There were a few epic sweet wines served at the end of this epic lunch, a 1921 Yquem (99), a 1863 Taylor Single Harvest Port (98) and a 1900 Krohn Reserva Port (97), I think. Game, set, match. I was no match for The Maestro, but I am definitely game to try again! I will be seeing him very soon, as a matter of fact”¦

Legend

In Vino Veritas,
JK

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